Windows 10: After upgrading, my PC won't recognize my SSD or HDD?

I'm not exactly a computer mastermind, but let me try to explain what is going on... There's a TL;DR version, too.

Two days ago I got home from work and turned on my computer, which is a little over a year old and has never had any problems before. It wouldn't boot up. It said something about the ivp4 or ivp6 or something along those lines. Whatever. Anyway, I restarted a few times and eventually went into BIOS and didn't see my SSD listed anywhere... Only the ivp4, ivp6, dvd rom, and my HDD. Ok. So I reconfigured my settings, put the HDD first in the boot sequence, and restarted....

And then it said there was no boot drive. WTF? So I went into BIOS (originally I couldn't get into that... I had to put a Windows 7 boot disk into the dvd rom to even have that option) and there is no SSD and no HDD. Now when I restart it without the boot disk in the dvdrom it says, "Restart and select proper boot device". Too bad I can't. I wish I could. I unplugged the SSD and HDD and put them into a really old PC I have... It didn't recognize them. BUT... Then I took the HDD out of the really old PC and plugged it into the newer one... And it wasn't recognized there even though it's good on the other one. Also, when I plugged in two external HDDs, they were both visible. I couldn't boot up with them, of course, but they were there in BIOS. My PC still powers on perfectly fine. I've taken the CMOS out to reset any misremembered settings there. I've set BIOS to default, played with settings, gone back to default, etc. I've configured my SATA to Raid, AHCI, and IDE. All serial ATA ports read as empty, even though they're not. I've plugged my SSD into different ports, used different cables, etc.

The only thing different about anything is that a few days prior to this, I took a plunge of curiosity and upgraded to Windows 10. I usually wait at least a year before upgrading OS's to give time for all bugs to work their way out, but for some reason I didn't this time.




TL;DR?
One lovely day my computer randomly wouldn't read my SSD. Then it stopped reading my HDD. It wouldn't read a good HDD from another computer but the other computer wouldn't read either the SSD or the HDD from the first computer. It would read external HDDs but not boot from them.


It'd make sense if my SSD and HDD just died for no reason and were bad (but why would one die and then the other a few minutes later?) but if that's the case, why won't my PC read the old HDD from another PC that I know works? Likewise, it'd make sense if my newer PC just wasn't reading any drives and they were actually both fine, but then why would it read external HDD's and why wouldn't the SSD and HDD show up on my old PC? (It's old AF... Maybe that's why?)



Does anyone have a clue what might be wrong here or how to fix it? I spent over $1,000 on this computer early last summer and it really pisses me off that it stopped working after such a short time. the only other PC option I have right now has 1GB of RAM and is 15 years old. I'm sure most of the parts are under warranty still, but I can't even seem to nail down specifically what's wrong. Plus it'll probably take a month to ship off old parts and get new ones. Any ideas??
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:)

 

I can't reactivate my windows 10 after a clean re-installation

Hi everyone,

I've upgraded my HDD to SSD, before that I upgraded my windows 10 from windows 7 for quite a while, so I am pretty sure should have my license on my PC.

After a clean installation to my SSD, Microsoft couldn't recognize it and ask me to pay. How I can reactivate it again?

 

Windows not recognizing my hard drive

I just installed windows on my SSD, and now I cannot see my hard drive. When I move to the "THIS PC" section in my files I only see one drive. My Hard Drive is plugged in. Why won't it recognize the hard drive?

 

Need the short version. What does the Bios show for those two drives? Is the Bios set for UEFI? What are the manufacturer & model of the hard drivers? Is the computer one that you built or one you purchased say a Dell, HP/Compaq, etc.? If built, what is the mfg & model of the motherboard.

 

@Admiraltrey

Hi,

Please fill in your full system specifications within your user profile. Please complete ALL hardware sections. Thanks

And welcome to the forum *Smile

 

If it makes you feel any better my laptop (after installing Win 10 ) has shutdown twice (once during a system restore and once during a system refresh) with a message flashing across the screen saying no detectable boot device found so your not alone .

I just reinstall lol.

 

Thanks for the fast replies! I've updated my system specs and they should now be viewable. My motherboard is a Gigabyte Z87-HD3, I have an Adata SP900 128GB SSD and a Hitachi 500gb HDD (it's old). I've tried setting my BIOS for UEFI and legacy.

and FredC, I feel your pain! I'd feel better if everything worked for everyone lol.

 

Are you still overclocking? Have you reset all your BIOS settings? A failed overclock can cause the Serial ATA controller to not detect connected drives if the frequency is too high. Other data bus are linked to the SATA controller meaning that everything is interconnected and impacts upon one another. Please check and ensure that all bios settings and frequencies are at default. Please ensure that all overclocks are removed. The SATA chip should be running at 100MHz.

Edit: Not sure where you live but if you are in the US (you are showing the right time zone) then there is a a lot of heat going on across many states right now. This would increase any instability within an overlclock.

 

I reset set the over lock back down to its original 3.40... Could the damage have already been done by the overclocking? Where would I check the SATA chip? Under the frequency tab in BIOS I see Performance Upgrade, CPU Base Clock, Host/PCIe Clock, Processor Base Clock, Spread Spectrum Control, Host Clock Value, Processor Graphics Clock 1200, CPU Upgrade, CPU Clock Ratio, CPU Frequency, Advanced CPU Core Settings, Extreme Memory Profile, System Memory Multiple, Memory Frequency.

And it it is extremely hot down here in the south, but my system temperature remains under 33 Celcius and usually under 30.

 

@Admiraltrey

fyi - a lot of people check stability of their overclock for the highest possible settings and then leave it there if it is stable under load/stress testing after a few hours. What they forget is to then move the settings back down a few notches after completing the stability tests. This is required to allow a bit of leeway. Oftentimes an overclock can fail during the summer because of the far higher ambient temperatures (often over 35-40c in the summer in the south). That is where the leeway becomes important as the higher ambient temps can kill what appeared to be a good overclock as the original stability tests would have been carried out with ambient temps of around 22-23c. I'm not saying this is what you did, but thought it was worth a mention *Smile

I'm in the middle of stripping down my liquid-cooled rig for it's 5-monthly loop maintenance so cannot check the settings in my bios (also a Gigabyte mobo). But, if you set the CPU base clock to AUTO it should, I think, then disable all manual overclock options across the rest of the components and you will see both the PCIe Clock and Host Clock frequencies return to 100MHz. That should also make the SATA controller run at 100MHz too and hopefully allow detection of all connected drives from within your bios.

Please confirm if your bios now detects your drives. Also check again with your the old drive that you took out of your other system.

 

Ok, I've set the base clock to auto and then I also ensured that the PCIe and host clock were set to 100... I'm still not getting any drive detection. I should also mention that I downloaded the latest drivers for my motherboard from Gigabyte's website and put them on a UsB, but when I tried to Q-Flash update my BIOS, I got a BIOS ID check error. I really just don't know what to do at this point. Most or all of my parts are under warranty, but I don't know which part is even messed up at this point.

 

Hi @Admiraltrey,

Okay then. Since this really does not seem to be a Win10 issue, I'm going to ask that you make new thread on a more specialist site that focuses on hardware and overclocks. Nothing wrong with the folks here (they are excellent), but you will be able to access a wider pool of knowledge. I recommend posting a thread at either anandtech, hardforums, overclocker.net or overclockers.com. I'm actually also a member at all of these sites, under a different username though. My knowledge is way inferior to some of the other members on the sites I've mention. By tapping into their brains you stand a far greater chance of success *Smile

I also recommend taking photos of all bios screens of your hardware settings and to include these photos in your opening post. Also post the bios version you currently have installed. Obviously ensure that your full hardware specification is also listed. Only post on one forum and not all four as otherwise we may all be pulling in different directions.

Oh...And these types of situations are often recoverable (sadly no guarantees), so try not to get too stressed *Smile