Windows 10: Bitdefender shutdown error--

Okay. Most modern devices have both and unfortunately they shift names ever so slightly so they won't sue one another. Really, really silly.

Ken

 

I have two associated threads on the board. I will post this identical message on the other.

First and foremost, thank you to all who have had the patience and knowledge to help me through this effort!

With my success installing an SSD replacement for my wife's Dell and upgrading her OEM Win8.1 to 10 in the rear view mirror, I'm pleased to say that I've successfully accomplished the more difficult task of doing the same (though 7 - 10) + BIOS on my T61 (and had given up for the garbage heap) I had replaced with a P50.

Here's a list of my obstacles along the way and solutions in the event some one else of limited skill runs into the thread.

1. Bitlocker causing a BIOS flash to fail: Disable the security chip in the Lenovo BIOS. Remove the hard drive. Now there's zip to interfere with flashing the BIOS and same went smoothly (finally...).
2. Middleton T61 BIOS: The download has two folders a) BIOS update containing 1 iso file, and b) BIOS update blah, blah.... containing a #1.iso and #2.iso. The readme says zip about the single iso. I initially ignored that iso file. Later I found out that the Middleton BIOS 'had' to have the first folder's iso (Lenovo BIOS) flashed before his BIOS (added support for SATA II and an important something regarding the Intel dual core chip support) could be flashed. My takeaway--if someone's gone to the trouble of providing a folder/file, even though it's not explained in the readme--doin't blow it off ;-)!
3. When replacing the original 2 1/2" drive, you have to reuse the caddy that the drive is screwed to. So, DON'T remove the pull tab thinking you'd 'stick' it on the new drive. It's on the d*mn caddy not the drive and does not pull off but tears off! When doing something idiotic like this, be sure and have a pair of needle nose pliers handy and 'carefully' use same to pull out the replacement SSD when needed.
4. After sliding the drive in and booting the machine and it doesn't see a hard drive, you (Moi) have installed the drive upside down!
5. When using MCT for the upgrade and you opt to grab updates during the process vs. post install (mistake) and the updates stall, do services/restart. The one time that I did do updates during, I had to restart the thing 3 times.
6. I used your util to grab my Win7 key but did something that caused the machine to go directly from boot to BSOD, despite an image restore from months ago. I used the key installing 10 and the installer seemed to accept the key since the process moved on to completion. However, when 10 loaded it said same needed activation. Not having had the time to collect the 'Genuine...." previously, I called MS. What a pleasant surprise. The T61 had 7 home premium. Somehow I had installed 10 pro. I explained all to the rep also mentioning that my primary laptop has OEM 10 pro. She dialed in, entered a mess of numbers on two different screens and I ended up with Pro activated and using my same key ))).

I have one last T61 chore. The fan/heat sink should arrive from China today or tomorrow. I'll have to remove a zillion philips head screws to get at the thing. Since I no longer have a mechanical drive can I used a magnetized driver? Is there a common driver size for laptop screws?

Mark

 

I'd avoid the magnetized driver but I've seen them being used in Videos for speed even with HDD. Certainly some of the smaller ones will barely hold screw let alone influence drive.

As to set size, they are all different and some are Torx. You should be able to get a full set for very reasonable money at the big shops. They won't last a lifetime but will be very functional.