Windows 10: Computer died

Hello, this may not be an issue for this forum, but I don't know where else to start.

When I got up this morning, my screen was blank. I tried to re boot it, but nothing happened. I unplugged it and plugged it back in but the start button did nothing. I have a power supply tester so I plugged it in to the power supply and it lit up perfectly. Where should I continue in my diagnosis? Thanks, Jim

:)

 

Windows product key/Fresh install

My laptop (MSI, couple of years old) crashed. The OS is Windows 10, but originally it was a version of Windows 8.

Nothing seems wrong with the hardware, and I'm unable to repair the software. Even a recovery usb failed.

In short: The everything is still on my harddrive, and the harddrive seems to work properly (chkdsk, still able to browse it using Linux live usb, ...)

I'm planning to do a fresh install. Problem is, I don't have the activation key. Neither do I know which version of Windows 8 was installed (service pack etc.)

Is there a way to get this information? Can I install Windows 10 directly and use my old activation code if I have it? Or do I first have to install Windows 8, activate and then upgrade to Windows 10?

Thanks in Advance

Diederik

 

Windows product key/Fresh install

Well that was really helpful!

I installed windows 10 through windows upgrade, therefore it was activated. (But only because windows 8 was activated previously ofcourse)

I tried to repair the system using a bootable usb. I also tried to refresh the installation but both failed. I checked the disks for errors but none were found. Memory also didn't show any sign of a problem.

If what you say is true, I can just go ahead and freshly install windows 10 on my system, right? Also when I used the free upgrade to get it in the first place...

Anyway, thanks for the fast response. I really appreciate that.

 

Hello Jim *Smile

Oh dear! Best to start by seeing if there is any power getting to the motherboard, any lights showing on the board? Could be that your power supply unit inside the computer has packed in.

 

Hi Phil, thanks. My power supply checks good with my tester, but I haven't followed the complete procedure for testing HDD power or SATA power. I guess I should do that next.

 

OK, so if power is getting to the motherboard, then that may be the component that has failed. I would check by doing a reset of the motherboard by removing the button cell battery, waiting a few minutes before putting it back and trying again.

 

I replaced the battery. I had a new spare, but it didn't help. I have to leave now. I'll be back this afternoon. Thanks for your help.

 

There are 2 cables connected to the MB. Double check the 20/24 pin cable and 4/6/8 cable and make sure they are firmly seated.

 

With our time difference I may not be around when you return but hope you discover the root cause. @topgundcp has stepped in so you are in good hands!

 

Guess I wasn't very observant this morning. When I double checked the power supply tester this afternoon it shows that the -5vdc is missing and upon checking the 8 pin connector, the 3.3vdc CPU voltage is also missing.

Do I need a new power supply? If so, I currently have a Corsair TX750 but I see it's not a current model. What would be a good replacement? I see that the Corsair HX750 is the hot new item. Also, what is the HX750i, and why is it so much more expensive?

Thanks for the help, Jim

 

Looks like you do need a new power supply. If the spare one you have has the right connectors try it and it will be good confirmation of the problem. I've used Corsair and got on fine with them.

 

I think mine is corsair, factory fitted, and its great.

 

The HXi series are high end spec PSUs for the latest systems and will run quiet and reliably so would typically be used in gaming rigs that are often overclocked and where rock steady stability is required. I've found the CS or CX series are perfectly adequate for my needs.

 

Hi gang, The TX750 I mentioned is the one that is suspect. I ordered a new power supply from NewEgg. It's a CORSAIR RM Series RM1000. The machine is an I7 with 16GB memory so the 1000 watt PS won't hurt. It'll take a week to get here but I have my other computer to use in the meanwhile. Thanks for the help, Jim

 

Just want to say good work Jim, you solved it yourself and Welcome to Ten Forums