Windows 10: New router, "Default Gateway Not Available" error

In short, NIC means Network Card - the subsystem which links your PC to your local network.

If none of these software improvements work, then consider your router to be faulty.

 

Gah... yeah, I'm about ready to throw in the towel and just try a different router. My only concern is that the problem might indeed be with my laptop (someone else in my house expressed no issue with the wifi, though she uses it a lot less than I do), in which case buying a new router would be a giant waste of money.
I don't suppose anyone would have a solid recommendation for a good router? Preferable one costing $100 or less?

 

I'm a bit of a Billion fan and for home ADSL I'd suggest this: It can be a bit tricky to set up but is very reliable.

Billion BiPAC 7800NXL Triple WAN Wireless 'N' 3G/4G LTE ADSL2+/Fibre Broadband Router with 4 x Gigabit ports, 1 x USB port: Amazon.co.uk: Computers & Accessories

But do check recommendations from others.

 

If you run post 13 it will give us info to see what the problem is

 

I never run an unknown .exe from the internet as an administrator. Too risky. Please give some provenance.

 

Check and see if there is a firmware update for the router. If you're still having trouble, try a factor reset.

 

Don't throw in towel just yet. Lots of people want to help and this disconnect issue seems to be everywhere.

Network Adapter, NIC, wireless card for the purposes of this discussion are basically the same. If you could open device manager and find your wireless network adapter. Could you tell us what it is and what version of the driver you are running. (Include maker of driver please)

TrustMe suggested a router reset which I also suggested several posts back. I looked up you router. With power on, hold WPS/Reset button for 10 seconds.

Since channel 3 on your router is not doing it for you can you change to 6. The other two networks in your area were using eleven.

As I said I looked into your router and the manual I found was lacking. I would suggest you scan through your router pages. Some have items like options for Power and frequency range. I would turn up power and I used 40Mhz not the 20/40. I know they say its not very neighbourly, life is tough.

My Norton didn't like exe file. Norton has false positive before on lots of good software. Must do more research.

Not challenging anyone, could we get more details on Crewetown software. If it will solve this then I want to be able to use it.

 

Samuria: Yup, not going to run that unknown program without some evidence that it won't do something horrible to my laptop. Already got enough problems. No offense mate, but the general rule of thumb is to always be skeptical of this kind of stuff.

Trust Me: Already did that. There was a firmware update, I upgraded, and it didn't help. I also tried the factory reset, which also didn't help.

Caledon Ken: All right, I'll work a little more on this. I want to have a definite answer soon though, because I can only return this router up through the end of the month (though worst-case scenario I'm only out $30 on this thing).

Yeah, like I said I already tried the factory reset once. It didn't do anything.

I actually changed it from 3 to 6 a while ago since I was hearing it was one of the better channels and 3 wasn't doing much for me. Still having the problem.

Here's the information on my driver:

Driver Provider: Intel
Driver: Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260
Version: 18.12.0.3

I had actually been switching back and forth between 20Mhz and 40Mhz to see which would work better, but I guess I'll just leave it on 40, see if that does much.

 

I may be late on this, but the free version of insSSIDer is still available online. inSSIDer 3.1.2.1 Download - TechSpot

 

You are in luck today.... I think. This is the very card I have in my Dell and it will not run on up to date drivers. (or should I say I can't make it run and it is an old Dell.) I have same issue as you and I know my network is fine. I have around a dozen devices and they work.

Intel has a wireless diagnostic tool found here.

Running the Intel(R) PROSet/Wireless Software Manual Diagnostics Tool

You could try, I only found this morning while in pursuit of this thread. Would be interesting to see what it says.

Now I'm prepared to make my driver available. I use the February 2014 version V17.0.0.34. Not sure if I'm allowed to posts directly in thread or if will even let me being an exe. Guess I could rename bak.

I could make it available on my onedrive but we would have to swap emails privately. If you go this route you have to keep driver and every major release of Windows it needs to be reset back. I cannot explain why the newer drivers doesn't work in my case, I submitted Windows Feedback half a dozen times.If you search AC7260 issues on internet you might find root cause, you will find lots of hits. I found something that works and said thank you. I use it in N and AC modes.

You could go to Intel here but the oldest they have is 17.16. It does have very up to date drivers, maybe they will work.

Downloads for Intel(R) Dual Band Wireless-AC 7260

Will be on and off today.

Thanks bookfox, nice to know where free version is located.

 

Well that is quite fortunate. Before we jump too far, I'm going to try the free version of inSSIDer and the 17.16. I'll see how those work and then I'll get back to you guys.

 

I meant to post in here earlier, but I've been a bit busy.

Honestly, nothing has helped. We can try Caledon Ken's solution of getting his old driver, but when I tried to download some of the older ones from their website it blocked the installation because it was an old version, so I'm not sure if my computer will even accept it. At this point, I'm ready to just get a new router and try to return this awful thing. It's put me through a lot of stress, and I'm hoping that if I just try a newer, better router that I'll get better results, so if anyone has a good recommendation, I'm all ears.

 

Morning. Know you want to get new router, cool. That said if issue should appear on new router when you go to device manager, uninstall the adapter and uninstall the driver software. Then install the older driver. I've been looking for other solutions and will post.

On your router purchase, check out some online reviews before purchasing and watch the feature set. I check two or three, some of these review I'm sure are paid for by the vendor. Some devices are way over the the top and are fine if you have fiber to the house, run an extensive internal network and need the capabilities to USB off the back. Lots of user don't need.

 

Yeah, it's difficult doing the online review thing since a lot of them might be dishonest, but I had heard some decent word of mouth about the Securifi Almond, so I'm going to try that. Worst case, I return it (like I plan to do with the one currently residing in my Living Room once the new guy gets here) and try something else.

Anyways, I should thank you guys for doing your best. It was frustrating from both ends, but I appreciate you guys trying as hard as you did. In the end, it was my patience that really gave out. I'll let you know if the new guy works out, and if not... eh, I guess we'll start back at square 1.

EDIT: I forgot to update this, but I'm not about to bump it. I'm going to mark this as solved.

I returned the problem child router and went with the Almond. The signal is a little bit weaker, but still plenty serviceable and it hasn't dropped me yet. Thanks to everyone who tried, but it clearly wasn't in the cards. I still really appreciate all the help though!