Windows 10: Power Problem Building New Win10 System w/ ASUS H97i-PLUS Motherboard

I stripped an old chassis and am rebuilding around H97i-PLUSMOB (PSU is Solid Gear FLEX/Mini ITX 320W #SDGR-FLEX320 and CPU is i3-4160).
When MOB & PSU are connected, the MOB Standby Power LEDlights up. However, when 10-1 pin F_PANEL POWER BUTTON pins are shorted together, the MOB does NOT turnON.
Please suggest next steps to troubleshoot. Thanks.
[EMAIL ADDRESS EDITED OUT]

:)

 

Microphone volume problem

None of that worked...

It's a custom built pc....

Asus H97I-Plus / Intel® H97 / Socket 1150 / mITX

Intel® Core™ i7-4790

KINGSTON MEMORY DIMM 16GB PC12800 DDR3/HYPERXEVGA GeForce® GTX 970 ACX 2.0 / 4GB GDDR5 / FTW

is that helps somehow...

I'm not good at this..

 

Stuck at the Motherboard splash screen.

Everytime, when I start my PC it stucks at the motherboard splash screen. It'll only boot after several attempts of Restarts. Is there any problem with my operating system?? (or) Any problems in the operating system may cause this issue??

Please help me to fix this.....and thanks in advance.

MY specifications are:

Operating System: Windows 10 Enterprise 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release.170602-2252)

Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8120 Eight-Core Processor (8 CPUs), ~3.1GHz

RAM: 10 GB

HARD DISK: 1TB

GPU: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 750 Ti

Motherboard model: ASUS M5A78L-M PLUS/USB3

POWER SUPPLY: HUNTKEY GREEN POWER 550W

CPU COOLER: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 LED

CPU CABINET: ANTEC NEW SOLUTION SERIES VSK-4000B-U3 Black With USB 3.0

***Post moved by the moderator to the appropriate forum category.***

 

Hello saclarkdoc, welcome to the forums. Could you please list the system specs of the machine.

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When you attempt to start it, do you get anything at all like fans starting, led lights? Are you sure you have the FP Connectors plugged onto the correct pins with the correct polarity? The power button shouldn't make any difference as to polarity. The obvious suggestion would be to make sure all power connectors (24 pin and the 4/8 pin CPU connection)are plugged into the proper connections, and completely seated. Believe it or not, 1/16th of an inch can make a huge difference. If you have a graphics card installed, check those connections also. Are you running a BIOS version of 2100 or above?

Failing all of that, I would disconnect the DVD/CD drive, all hard drives and remove any graphics card you may have installed in the machine, use 1 stick of ram, disconnect all FP wires except the power switch and try to start it. Also, check your manual and see that you have the ram completely seated in the recommended slots. Do you have a Motherboard speaker installed? Are you getting any beeps from it? Any further info you could give us would be helpful in diagnosing it.

Did you install the standoffs in the correct positions making sure there are no extras and ALL standoffs line up with a motherboard hole with no extra standoffs?

 

I also notice your Motherboard calls for a +12V 8 pin CPU power connector. Your PSU only has a 4 pin connector.

 

I have taken the liberty of copying your requests into this reply, and then answering your queries in RED.

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Hello , welcome to the forums. Could you please list the system specs of the machine. The specs have updated to this machine.

When you attempt to start it, do you get anything at all like fans starting, led lights? Neither the fans nor the lights show any activity.

Are you sure you have the FP Connectors plugged onto the correct pins with the correct polarity? As part of my troubleshooting, I had previously removed ALL of the FP connectors, and have focused on just shorting the POWER SWITCH pins together; again, the result is "no response."

The power button shouldn't make any difference as to polarity. The obvious suggestion would be to make sure all power connectors (24 pin and the 4/8 pin CPU connection)are plugged into the proper connections, and completely seated. I have re-seated them several times during my troubleshooting, but to no avail. However, your suggestion is a good one, and I will re-emphasize my 're-seating efforts.'

Believe it or not, 1/16th of an inch can make a huge difference.

If you have a graphics card installed, check those connections also. I have NO graphics card installed. The MOB has an HDMI output which is adequate for my needs, which will consist of 100% ASCII text and audio files.

Are you running a BIOS version of 2100 or above? Having been unable to get the MOB running thus far, I have been unable to get into the BIOS; therefore, I do not yet know the version.

Failing all of that, I would disconnect the DVD/CD drive, all hard drives and remove any graphics card you may have installed in the machine, use 1 stick of ram, disconnect all FP wires except the power switch and try to start it. This is exactly what I did before posting my thread: I disconnected both the DVD drive and the HDD. I do not have a GPU card. I am using one stick of RAM, and I have disconnected all connectors from the FP connector and am shorting the Power Switch pins manually.

Also, check your manual and see that you have the ram completely seated in the recommended slots. I have my RAM stick in the slot for dual-channel operation. I will try changing it to the other slot which is mapped for single-channel operation.

Do you have a Motherboard speaker installed? Are you getting any beeps from it? I did have one installed, but I removed it as part of my troubleshooting.

Any further info you could give us would be helpful in diagnosing it.

Did you install the standoffs in the correct positions making sure there are no extras and ALL standoffs line up with a motherboard hole with no extra standoffs? Yes, that is correct.

I also notice your Motherboard calls for a +12V 8 pin CPU power connector. Your PSU only has a 4 pin connector. I BELIEVE WE HIT PAYDIRT!! The PSU has both a 4-pin connector and a 6-pin connector (even though the specs do not say so). I have been using the 6-pin connector. I just went back to my workbench and compared the 6-pin and the 4-pin connectors. They are each wired differently: one has the ground connections on the bottom, while the other has the ground connections on the top. When I switched to the 4-pin connector, the MOB powered up for the first time - YEA. Because it is quite late, I will continue troubleshooting tomorrow morning, but it appears we may be OUT OF THE WOODS!! Many thanks for the last suggestion. I'll let you know the status (and whether we can mark this one as "solved") by mid-day tomorrow!

 

That's great news. The connections are usually marked. The 4 pin should say CPU on it, if it is marked. The 6 pin is usually a GPU power cable for a graphics card. You are correct, they are wired different.

 

That answers 2 questions for me:

1) You can plug a PCI-E power connector into the 8 pin one on the motherboard, and

2) If you do that, you don't necessarily destroy the motherboard when power is applied

Incidentally, a couple of motherboards I've acquired in recent years have had 8 pin power sockets, but they came with a plug that blocked off half of the socket (to tell you which side of it to plug a 4 pin power connector into, if that's all that the PSU has). I guess that some motherboards don't need the 8 pin power. That may depend on the specific CPU used.

 

@bobkn, I have heard it is possible, I just never really thought it was.
@saclarkdoc, any updates? Are you running now? Usually if you feel the 4/8 pin socket, you will notice one side has a ridge on it. If you look at the plug, it has a clip on one side. The clip goes over the ridge on the socket. That helps secure the plug and also makes sure you have the correct orientation of the plug. The 24 pin is usually the same way.

 

I am up and running great. No damage to MOB!

 

Great! I'm glad it is working for you. Thanks for reporting back. Congratulations on your 'new' computer. Glad it's running well and there was no damage.