Windows 10: Replacing mobo with an identical replacement: what do I need to know?

Hi All:

I just bought an identical (new) Vostro 270 mobo to replace the bad one in my Inspiron 660. Besides having to reactivate Windows 10, what else do I need to know or have on hand before proceeding?

- Will I need to download drivers in advance - or can I update them after the install is complete? Advice for the best way to do either - if needed - will be appreciated.

- Any other thoughts/input will be GREATLY appreciated: I did this same replacement about six months ago* when the original mobo failed, but with phone and remote desktop assistance from my buddy who owns a computer repair biz out-of-state. I can't remember all the details of everything we did: I'd like to do this on my own without bothering him while he's busy - with actual cash-paying customers! *Wink

I have all the needed "implements of destruction" at hand, along with a new CPU cooler and case fan to install as well. As soon as I (hopefully) get some guidance here, I'm ready to begin this "surgery".

Thanks so much in advance - Paul

* the "gently used" Vostro 270 mobo I bought off Ebay has since failed, too.

:)

 

Reloading Windows.

Please always give the make and model of the device or at least the mobo if this is a custom rig. Help us help you.

What happens when you "reload" Windows? Do you mean it won't install or do you mean it will install but not activate? In case you mean the latter, please remember that Windows 10, unlike previous versions, is activated by licensing the device (computer).
The "computer" is defined for licensing purposes as the mobo/cpu. The hard drive doesn't matter. What matters are the unique identifiers of the mobo, like the serial number. The unique identifiers are recorded by MSFT and activation is tied to that.

If you purchased a retail license for Windows 10 then use the product key that came with it at the time you install.

If your Windows 10 is the free upgrade from Windows 7 or 8.1 you need to know that the license is only valid for the life of the device and that the mobo was that device. If you have replaced the mobo with the same make and model then you have a repair
replacement and you can reinstall the Creators Update and if that does not activate you can get help from MSFT using the Get Help app on your Start menu. The MSFT Answer Desk agents usually will not assist you with a preview build installed but by installing
build 15063 you will qualify for free installation support since 15063 is the currently supported production build.

If you replaced the mobo with a different retail mobo, called an "upgrade replacement," then you have a new computer and not just a computer with a replacement part. The free Windows 10 upgrade is not transferrable to a replacement upgrade mobo. In that
case you may need to purchase a license.

 

Upgraded hardware and now not able to activate windows

How did you buy that copy of Windows. If it was factory installed on the computer, then there is little chance you can transfer it to the new computer. The only exception is if the MOBO is an identical replacement for a factory defect.

If you bought a retail license for Windows to install on a the original computer, then yes you do have the right to transfer it to new hardware.

 

If you are replacing the motherboard with an identical motherboard, then why would you need to download drivers?

 

Yep, just build it and press the power button.

The only issue I see is activation, even though it`s the same board, it`s still a different board.

 

To make the sailing smoother (no windows problems) make sure you have a Microsoft account:

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...ardware-change

 

Update: Since I didn't hear back from my original post and was on a limited time frame to do this on my day off, I took a leap of faith and reasoned that I should try what AddRAM and zbook have since suggested. I went ahead with the install, but the outcome was not what I'd hoped.

Initially, I had no video. Zip, nada, none. From neither the MSI Radeon R7 240 nor the onboard video. The computer would start, but the power light on the front panel stayed orange (as it does when asleep) instead of turning white as it does when operating properly. I didn't have any indication nor confidence that it had made it through the POST. I shut it down and rechecked all connections for the third time, uninstalled and reinstalled both the RAM and graphics card and said a prayer.

The next startup didn't go well at all. After approx. 15 seconds something started to emit a burning smell, and my UPS's alarm went off and it went into protection mode, indicating that there was some sort of dead short - somewhere. Not good. As best I can determine, the "new" mobo I purchased off eBay was DOA.
The only issue the previous mobo had was that it wouldn't go to sleep as programmed (after 1/2 hour of inactivity): sometimes it would, but most of the time when the computer was left unattended it would just turn itself off completely. I'd previously eliminated the 460w power supply as the culprit by swapping in a known good 500w unit.

Since I needed my computer up and running, I reinstalled the old mobo and not knowing for sure if there was an issue with the 500w power supply, I took the extra precaution of reinstalling the previous 460w unit. (I'll test the output voltages on the 500w unit when I have some spare time to kill before I "86" it.)

On restart with the original mobo, it started with 5 beeps, pause 5 beeps, pause, and so on - without getting past POST. I shut it down, did some research and found info that indicated failure of the CMOS battery. Since I had just installed a new one, I knew this couldn't be right but still removed it, checked its voltage and reinstalled it.

The next start up brought up a DOS screen asking if I wanted to revert to the original BIOS configuration. On the advice of my friend I elected not to do that, but instead went into the BIOS to reset the system clock, which had reverted back to 2013. After selecting "Save and Exit", I now have a working computer again. *Biggrin

Guess I'll be returning the eBay mobo. Still haven't decided if I want to try another mobo: for now I've just set the SSD hard drive to turn off after 30 minutes. What's to lose?

I think I'll call it a day. Thanks to AddRAM and zbook for trying to help: I appreciate it.