Windows 10: Slow shutdown one night and now a Disk is missing

An article on UEFI.

https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/10...ow-about-uefi/

Giving size of your disk I would imagine you will be using over 2TB disks down road.

According to manaula there are two options AHCI or Raid.

Not sure why this goes back to off / disabled.

I would do the install and change your memory speed. Power down and boot with only C:. Should be able to see through disk management whether partitions for efi boot created.

 

Something else was wrong with my computer so I didn't order the drive yet or reinstall windows on UEFI and it seems like it's another drive on it's way out.

sometimes when I interact with my storage drive (G: , another barracuda or the Seagate equivalent ) the file doesn't open, windows explorer crashes making the background black, making the task bar black and the only things that work are things I already have open. If i'm lucky enough to have another file explorer open I can still go to other drives and even wake up my external usb drive, but if I try to do anything on G: that window is now dead too. Using task manager during this time to try and Shutdow/Log off/Switch user just causes the PC to hang indefinitely doing that tast until I press the reset button on the PC or turn it off at the plug.

I was going to run checkdisk with some commands I saw on the internet ( chkdsk G: /f /r /x ) but then it said at the end of the article that you could lose data and to back it all up first.

Restarted the computer (twice) and the drive was missing from the list and the computer took 4 minutes to shut down or start up again and even then still missing, went to sleep for the night.

Here I am in the morning posting this and the drive is there, I ran seatools and got this message "short DST - Fail" and started to back up all my files onto another drive.

Any ideas what to do next? once my files are backed up this seatools has an option for fix all fast, fix all long and other tests, but I could also run that checkdisk.

Like I said I really seem to be unlucky having two drives blow out.

 

Once you have it backed up I would do the fix long. Actually what I would really do is get a new drive(s), Western Digital. My preference, likely others have different opinion.

Yes two drives failing at once ( or close enough ) is unusual.

What is the power like where you are? I believe desktops should be fed through a UPS. Surges, voltage drops and flickers are hard on devices. Where I live flickers are part of life.

What is SMART data reporting on drive? To command prompt(admin)

WMIC diskdrive get status, size, model

 

I ran the cmd.exe as admin and typed WMIC diskdrive get status, size, model





Did I do that right?

I did a SMART check on the drive in Seatools and it said "Smart - Pass" (100%)

and this is what came up when I did an identify





Power seems fine, no blackouts or brownouts, I looked into getting a UPS but the prices were completely unreasonable over twice as much as the prices in America when I looked, and can't import one because of the different plug sockets wattages and volts and such.

I'm going to try the fix long like you suggested, wish me luck. Should I do a checkdisk with those commands I found after this?

 

Can't seem to edit my last reply. The button has been replaced with quote

Test failed at 4% as seen here

 

At this stage, I would think that there is something seriously wrong with your system.

Until you get it right:

As for the two hard disk drives, I would now seriously consider putting those into another working system ( one at a time) and check what happens. We will really know whether those got screwed up.

 

Have to agree with jumanji.

Do you have an external dock that you can use?

 

The only other thing I have going is a laptop.

The first drive that went wrong that I started the thread for I attached to the laptop with a USB-to-Sata Cable that I used to clone my old SSD to HDD (just to say that it's a working cable!) it still showed up in disk manager only and it still reported as a 0mb disk when I tried to initialize. So it wasn't a false report on the PC things ended up the same way on the Laptop.

If I remove this second faulty drive from the PC do I risk it no longer showing up in file explorer (and only disk management) like my last one? I'm just checking because if it stops showing up properly after taking it out this could have been my last chance to run checkdisk on it.

 

If the drive is really failing, I wouldn't run checkdisk as aforesaid. If it fails to complete and aborts itself halfway through then it will leave your drive in a much worse condition that would leave all the data in complete disarray.

Having said that, if you still can manage to recover the data as you said, do it as much as you can recover. When you come to the stage where you can no longer recover anything, remove it and then check it on your laptop with the USB to sata adapter which you profess to be working.

Troubleshooting your aberrent PC even after a fresh install of Windows 10 , is a different channel in which I won't poke my nose - my ignorance *Biggrin. I shall come in again only after you remove the drive and connect it to a working PC - devoid of any problems - , run the manufacturer's diagnostic/repair utility and if it passes.

 

All the data is off of the drive now and backed up on another drive, the only thing that had to be skipped with a copy paste job of the entire contents was a random old Nvidia driver exe that I did not need anymore, no big loss.

It's like the drive works until it sleeps, then when I try to access a file from it it doesn't wake up properly and ends up in a loop of unable to access the file and crashes all of windows with it.

With all the data safely off I'll plug it into the laptop before I turn on the main PC tomorrow, i'll install seatools on the laptop and run "Long fix" is that all correct? or should I do a scan on it first?

 

You will do the extended long test only if the short test fails.

 

Main computer started up really nice without this drive in it either. Task manager lists "last bios time" as 14.0 seconds, much faster.

Laptop booted fine with the drive in it, downloaded seatools, seatools scanned for drives and I did not see it on the list, tried to open file explorer (which I think is still on quick access on the laptop) BANG! windows explorer is dead, task bar not responding, file explorer never opens, only the mouse cursor and the already open seatools responding. CTRL+ALT+DEL brings does bring up the task manager but restart just hangs.

So main PC looking great without the drive, and now the laptop crashes haha. I put a little sticker on the sata cable and the power cable that the hard drive was plugged into on the main PC, just to try not using those next time I get a drive.

restarted the laptop, drive isn't in file explorer but is in disk manager as H: removable a 0mb disk no option to initialize, options are:

Change Drive Letter and Path...
Eject (greyed out)
Properties
Help

In the task bar for remove USB device you can click it but there is no device in the list just "...." as the thing to safely remove.

 

Bad luck. I would write-off both your drives. No question about it. Two drives failing in succession within a short interval is a rare occurrence that makes it unbelievable. ( I am now struggling with my English - unbelievable *Smile.)

Now you can concentrate upon setting your other PC right.

 

I took some pictures just in case there was anything of interest in them, if there isn't then reply back that there is nothing there and I'll mark the topic as solved! Thank you for all the help.

 

Are you sure that Disk 1 Removable ( H: ) No Media is your faulty drive? ( I am not *Smile)

Please do this: Disconnect from the Internet/network so that your network drives do not show up. Safely remove all other storage devices like External drives/ Flash drives/USB hubs/ Card Reader/ USB docks / USB Printers etc. ( Practically nothing plugged into the USB ports except USB Keyboard and USB mouse if you are using those.) If your laptop has a built-in Card Reader, disable it temporarily in Device Manager.

Now plug in only your faulty drive. If your drive shows up with the drive letter as above with "No media" and allows you to change the drive letter, change it to one unused drive letter like R,S,T,U, V,W . Once done try to format that drive.

This is the last thing you can do/try. Doesn't succeed????

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