Windows 10: Stuck at logo loading.

Hi all,
For the past few months my computer has been freezing with loud buzzing sound. Had to force a restart.

Just last week I took my pc apart and cleaned it. Tested the ram. Did prime95 and furmark test and had no issues or freezing. Had no issues after a few days of using however now it has been back to haunt me. Even so I am unable to boot past the logo screen as it will freeze. I wanted to do a reformat and clean install of windows 10 but it had detected an issue and not allowing me to.

If it helps i can attach the events logs for you guys to help to troubleshoot. Thanks in advance.

:)

 

Windows 10 stuck at logo loading screen

I am stuck at the Windows 10 logo loading screen. After some time it boots to Automatic Repair and then turns the screen black with only the mouse pointer visible. This happened after the explorer was acting laggy and then crashed. I am not even
able to boot into safe mode using automatic repair. I am using Windows 10 Education 64 bit anniversary edition.

 

Windows 10 stuck at logo loading screen

We can see here that you have done all the necessary troubleshooting steps to resolve this concern, but to no avail. Having said that, we suggest that you reinstall your Windows which you can get from this

link. You can also contact the computer’s manufacturer to assist you in backing up all of your files.

Please post back with the result for further assistance.

 

What happens when you try to do a clean install? What is the issue that's detected or reported when you try? Sounds like you can boot from alternate media, so some kind of fix should be possible. Please tell us more!
Thanks,
--Ed--

 

I tried to reset the pc via control panel reset pc in safe mode because thats the only place my pc is able to boot to currently. Cant even boot to safe mode with networking. The message i get when i try to reset is just a orange screen saying there was a problem resetting your PC. No changes was made.

 

Can you access PC BIOS to get it to boot to a bootable flash drive? Your next move might be an in-place repair install from a bootable UFD with your current build's Win10 ISO ready to roll. What version of Windows are you running on your PC? Let me know and I'll point you at instructions to build such a UFD (which stands for USB Flash Drive, in case you didn't already know) and more instructions on how to perform and in-place repair install. If it works, it will leave your applications and settings alone, but fix your OS.

All this said, your symptoms are also suggestive of potential hardware problems, perhaps with your power supply. Please fill out a complete set of system specs so we can see what you're dealing with here. It may be the case that hardware repairs are called for, and could make your symptoms go away entirely if solved.

Thanks, and keep trying. We'll get you sorted out!
--Ed--

 

Thanks for you help Ed. I can access bios. Do I need a working pc to create a bootable UFD?

Here are my specs.

Processor
I7 4790

Mainboard
Msi Z97S krait

Graphics Card
Sapphire AMD Radeon R9 290X 4098 MB

Memory
4 x Kingston DDR3 4GB

Display
2 x Dell U2311

Storage
Crucial M500 480GB
Samsung 1TB SATA2
Western Digital 2TB Green Caviar
Seagate Black 3TB
WD Green 3TB

Casing
Cooler Master 690 Advance II

PSU
Cooler Master 550W Extreme

OS
Windows 10

 

When I plug your components into the outervision.com/power-supply-calculator, I get 613 W, but you only have a 550 W unit installed. This could be the problem right there. I usually recommend buying 100-200 MORE than the calculated value for headroom, and you're almost 70 W LOWER than the calculated value.




(Note: you can enter the shortened URL to see all the assumptions I made, and values I plugged into the calculator)

You might want to think about swapping in an 800 W PSU, minimum. I've had excellent luck with Seasonic, Thermaltake, and Corsair models myself. Let's ask for comments from the community?
I'm going to PM a couple of hardcore hardware guys to see what they think, too.
And yes, you would need access to another PC to build the installable UFD given the state of this one! If you don't have another, perhaps you can borrow a notebook or laptop from a friend, co-worker, or family member?
HTH,
--Ed--

 

Oh wow. I removed 2 hdd and and did an edit on your url but total wattage is at 538w. I guess its very close to the current 550w i have. Guess I will head down to the hardware store to grab one psu to test it out.

Please do keep me updated on which psu the community reccomends.

I will try to find a windows to build thr ufd in the meantime.

 

I'm not hearing anything to contradict Tom's selections for 2016. I'd recommend either of the top two choices above. Have had great results from both vendors, and cheerfully confess an abiding affection for Seasonic PSUs.
--Ed--

 

I wanted to test if it may be a software problem.
I took out my gpu, all my harkdisk drive. I left my ssd alone. I did a format the ssd and installed Windows10 using UFD. I did it a few times and always had problem at the getting devices ready part. It will stop spinning at 40 to 60% even though i removed all my usb devices. Then a light blue screen will appear and say windows encountered an eror and is unable to continue. No error code on the screen but it says it will upload data to microsoft etc.. But its stuck at 0% probably caused I am not connected.

Does this still imply that I have a psu problem? Or can it be a motherboard or ssd issue?

 

Nope, at least not necessarily. This appears to indicate some kind of driver problem that's fundamental enough to prevent the OS from loading completely. Or again, you've got some kind of hardware problem that's doing likewise. My advice is to bring in some more local, more expert help. If you have a knowledgeable friend who can help you troubleshoot your PC, that would be nice. Otherwise, it's probably time to think about taking it into a local mom'n'pop shop that does PC troubleshooting and repair. Just for grins, you might want to see if you can borrow a 750W or better PSU and just try it out: the "loud buzzing sound" you mention in your first post is what makes me inclined to suspect something power related is at work.
Sorry for your trouble, though: it's always trying when troubleshooting fails so persistently.
Best wishes,
--Ed--