Windows 10: Transfer installation to new hardware

I'm upgrading to a new ASUS motherboard, new chipset (x79 to x99) and a new processor. I'm going to try to run my current Windows 10 installation (a retail copy - not OEM) without reinstalling from scratch.

On the previous install (after backing everything up) I removed as many of the old system drivers as made sense (USB3, graphics, etc..) and deactivated any software that needed that. I'm close to ready to see what happens. If it all fails then I'll just reinstall from scratch - which I'll do anyway on some rainy day. I'm just interested in seeing how well Windows 10 will cope with such a change of hardware - though it's still an ASUS Deluxe board, a recent Intel Chipset, and a fairly recent processor.

BUT - HERE'S THE QUESTION: When one makes such a major hardware change Windows10 will certainly complain and require reactivation. But is there any grace period??

I'm hoping I might have a couple of days to confirm that everything works properly before having to call Microsoft. If there's a serious hardware issue then I would have to revert back to my old hardware until any problems are resolved.

Does anyone here know what will likely happen? I'm just concerned that I might be stuck with a computer that's locked until reactivated and then find that there's a serious problem with the new system.

:)

 

Windows 10 on a new PC

Assuming you do not speak Swedish...

If the computer-in-question came with Windows 7 or Windows 8.(1) preinstalled when you bought it, your "digital entitlement" to Windows 10 CANNOT be used to install Win10 on new hardware.

If you purchased a full retail version of Windows 7 or Windows 8(.1) and installed it on new hardware then upgraded to Windows 10, your Win10 license allows a one-time transfer to new hardware.

cf. my colleague Andre's Englished-language webpage
https://www.groovypost.com/howto/transfer-windo...

 

How does re-activation of windows 10 work?

No, it will be the hardware it is installed and activated on. Because it is a retail copy, it is a full version with transfer rights. So if you get a new computer you would like to install it on, you can simply transfer the license, then, reactivate by telephone.

 

Windows 10 will de-activate on the first boot on the new hardware. The only thing you will lose is some of the personalization settings customization and you will start getting nag screens to activate Windows 10.

 

Any idea how long that will last? Just wondering if I will at least have a few days to confirm that all's well before being forced to call MS (or trying to activate automatically)?

Thanks for the reply

 

As far as I know it will go on indefinitely.

 

That should give me enough time ;-)

Thanks!

 

On my main work system I boot both Win7 and Win10 by swapping out SSD's in a mobile rack. I just got the new system up and running and Windows 7 loaded without problems. I'm just finishing installing all the new drivers. Next I have to see if Microsoft will oblige me to call and activate. Once that's done I'll do the same with my Windows 10 SSD. So far it's all clear sailing )

 

Neither activated without a phone call. Windows 7 activated via the automated system while Windows 10 required speaking with an agent. She confirmed that all my numbers were valid and then gave me a new Windows 10 Key which worked and will work again if/when I do the next clean re-installation.

Both Win7 and Win10 seemed to have survived the brain transplant and are now properly activated.

 

Not sure why a phone call would have to be made, a retail key should work on new hardware as long as the old is retired.

 

Having to make the phone call is the way that you tell Microsoft that you have retired the old installation that it was previously used for.

 

I know why it`s made, I don`t understand why it would have to be made, I never have/had to with a retail key.

An OEM or System Builders key sure, but not a Retail key.

As long as the Retail key doesn`t show up again on any other hardware, there should be no reason for a phone call, it`s all done through the servers.

 

I just ordered a new CPU, MoBo and Ram, and want to keep my W10 installation exactly as it is. Including every little customization to the looks and what program starts what I now use. Including drive paths (that can be hard to do before I change them to the correct order, as they now are in the order of drives C:5 D:3 E:4 F:1 G:2, as the SATA instructions/documentation of the old MoBo weren't really correct.)

I did mark the SATA cables with drive-letter and number, so I can get it right from the beginning this time, do I have to set them in the same insane order as they are in now on the coming MoBo, or will it go by SATA-slot number from the start? Biggest problem it that all but the Intel SSD C: are WDC drives, two 500Gb one 2TB one 3TB.. and they are almost named/numbered the same when looking at them in bios.

I have a totally legit WIN 10 PRO code. Do I need to deactivate it from this setup first?

What is need to 'clean up' from old drivers before installing? Everything from the old MoBo? ..and then it would work?
Even less then that? More then that?

 

This is what I would do:

Start with only the C: drive connected to the first sata port on new motherboard. Boot up into Windows. Windows 10 handles new hardware very well and you shouldn't have to do anything other than move the hard drive over. You will probably have to re-activate the Windows 10, more than likely by phone activation, but you might be able to do it with change product key on the activation screen.

Once that is all settled, connect the desired D: drive to the the next SATA port. Then e: drive, etc. You can adjust drive letters if you have to either in Windows disk management or with MiniTool Partition Wizard. After all the hard drives are set up with the correct letters, then connect any optical (DVD) drives.

 

Yeah when I last updated Op-system, I added a 250 GB SSD, to install Win 10 on.
I had a really stupid Bios, where you had to go to a special bios-page to 'force' it to install on C: ,even thou it were already setup in that order on it's main page.
So I really learned my lesson when it comes to only having the correct drive connected at Install.

But to the 'what needs to be removed'? ..to keep install fully up and working. This time (finally) going from AMD to Intel.

And do I have to deactivate WIN 10 pro on this one, before activating it on the new one