Windows 10: Audio driver quickly fading in whenever a new sound starts

Hi there,I have Windows 10 on a Dell laptop (now if only I could remember the exact model, I guess that's a disadvantage to being blind...).Well, anyway, I've spent quite considerable time trying to correct all my auditory whoa's. Sort of a longish story but here goes anyway.(Southern accent) awwl rot! (alright). So, first thing's first, in order for me to use a computer I must use a Screen reader. I use Jaws 17, the most popular screen reader for Windows. Unfortunately 17 isn't the most compatible for Windows 10 as opposed to version 18, but 17 was just what I have at the moment - another $1250 down the drain!Well, the audio on here was driving me absolutely crazy. Whereas on many of my older laptops Jaws sounds fine (i.e. with no audio enhancements), this one was super weird in that it sounded real muffled. No option to disable enhancements when I looked at Sound settings, so after doing some research, I isolated the problem and have decided to use the High Definition Audio Device (not Realtek's driver, but the native Microsoft driver) as suggested by many people to eliminate that crappy audio effect. It helped, but every three seconds after Jaws would stop, the driver would shut down, and whenever Jaws starts speaking again, a loud and deafening POP would take over and I'd mis-hear half of what Jaws would say.Ok, more research then... (suspense emoji if there were such a thing)The research led me to have to go into the Registry and set the Idlepowertime... ConcervationTime... (I believe, been so long it's hard to remember the name) to 00000000000 instead of 30000000000000000. 3 seconds that is.That has helped, except now there's another problem - which has happened before on this Laptop, I just was too focused on getting rid of that pop I hadn't noticed.One of the sounds Jaws comes with is a sharp click sound that I customized to play whenever Jaws comes upon a link. On all my other laptops this click could be heard. On this one, however, it can't. The file lasts only about 1/64 of a second, and I've figured out that anytime a new sound is introduced - i.e. every time that link click sound plays - it fades the sound up, which causes the click to be a dead thump rather than a sharp click it was meant to be.I've explored almost every single setting on the audio driver in the registry but to no avail. I used Studio Recorder, a blind-accessible audio editor, to see which levewl the fade stops. After amplifying the sharp click so it's at 0 DB, I decreased the volume in 0.1 DB increments. Once it reached -28.66 DB, the fading stopped and it was a sharp click, only this time a very low volume.So, from all this - how in the absolute haggis can you counteract this fading-in so I hear that sharp click at every volume level? Note that all my audio enhancements are disabled, so it must be something along the lines of a bug in the driver perhaps. Right now, I can't tell if it's just text or if it's an actual link because of the quick fading up to the right level. The click is too short for the fade.I'm desperate to fix this before I do anything else - audio is 100% of my world, and if there is even a slight imperfection, I'm not happy with it.Sure, I understand that this type of quick fade is useful when counteracting clicks at the beginning of bass-heavy audio, but this sharp click is different from that of a typical click. It's more like the sound of tapping a flashdrive on the table, not that dull electronic click comparable to plugging headphones in or something to that effect.Thanks for the advice in advance!!MichaelPS. For anyone that is also having problems with their audio popping, here is where you need to go. I'm not an expert, but I simply followed the guy's instructions from online.First of all we have to change the driver from the default Realtek (the muffly crappy one0 to Microsoft's native driver. It's not too complicated.First go to Device Manager, and expand "Sound, Video and Game controllers". It does not appear in the Sound settings.Expand on your ddevice you're curretnly using, be it Headphones, Speakers etc.As a blind person who can't use a mouse, I press sSShift + F10. There's an option called "Update Driver". Press Enter on that. There's an option to either Search automatically or browse my computer. You want Browse.There will be an option at this point to Help me pick. Choose that one. Also make sure that Show compatible hardware is checked.If possible, select the option called High Definition Audio device. Once you do, the driver will update, or it will warn you about the update. Pass that warning by either clicking OK or Yes, I can't remember exactly. Now it will either start up or you'll have to manually restart it. Now the audio shouldn't be muffled anymore, but the Pops are still there. This gets even more fun.From anywhere, press Windows key + R, type Regedit. (if you're blind, it's R, E, G, followed by the word Edit, no spaces). This puts you in the Registry editor.Here is the list of trees to expand. Or so Jaws calls them, they may not be trees visually...HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINERight arrow to expand.SYSTEMExpand that.CurrentControlSetExpand that one.ControlClass{4d36e96c-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}(this code may be different depending on your systemm, so try looking in every single spot to find it).0006(there are numbers like 0000, 0001, 0002, etc If you're new to this, it's best to tab over once when you're on one of those numbers, and look for the DriverDesk parameter in the list, it should read something like "High Definition Audio Device".Once you've found the right driverdesk, tab back to where you found the number and down-arrow until you hit "PowerSettings". This tells the system to turn off the audio after a specific silence time has elapsed - NOT GOOD FOR BLIND PEOPLE!Tab over to the parameters such as ConcervationTime, IdleTime, whatever it may be. Again I can't remember exact wording so forgive me...Replace any non-0 numbers with 0 in all of these fields.After that, go to File, Export. Call it something you'll remember, like "Audio.reg". Once saved, close the Registry editor, go over to where you saved it, and in the blind world's case, press Enter on it. Windows will tell you it's successfully been added to the registry. Press OK.At this point it's best to restart and you'll find that there are no loud and deafening Pops.However, what still concerns me to the nines is that this quick fading-up whenever any new audio turns on is still a real bother for me... again I can't tell if Jaws comes across a link, or plain text.Hope that has helped get your audio up and running at least somewhat. Now to counteract that stupid fade-up!

:)

 

Laptop audio crackles regardless of which speaker is selected

I recently downloaded a new game from steam, but I quickly realised that no sounds was playing. I checked my default audio device (Realtek HD Audio) drivers to see if they were up to date. They weren't. I installed the new driver but the sound became extremely
tinny and crackly, especially with louder and higher pitched audio.

I though this might be a problem with Realtek HD Audio, so I disabled it and connected my TYLT portable Bluetooth speakers, but they also played a tinny and crackly sound. Therefore this couldn't be a Realtek HD Audio problem.

I'm completely stumped on this one, I've tried the windows audio troubleshooter but it didn't resolve the issue. I've disabled all enhancements as well.

Thanks.

 

No Sound after upgrading to Windows 10

Original Title: No Sound

I upgraded from XP to Windows 10 (64 bit). Initially the sound was great. Gradually, the sound (voice & music) started to fade & I also noticed that the Hanns.G monitor started to fade (as though a mist/fog appeared. After re booting, the fog disappeared
but the sound had reduced from 100% to about 15%. I changed the USB plug in sound card to an HD Audio & headphone Amp. Still no sound. I plugged sound card into each USB port in turn. No sound. I then changed the monitor to a new Hanns.G monitor (speakers
within)...no sound. I then checked the sound card within bios that indicated there was a fault. I changed the motherboard in case that was at fault. Initially, when re booted, bios showed sound was working ok, but no sound emitted.

Help !!

[Moved from Community Participation Center]

 

Version with paragraphs for you:
Hi there,I have Windows 10 on a Dell laptop (now if only I could remember the exact model, I guess that's a disadvantage to being blind...).

Well, anyway, I've spent quite considerable time trying to correct all my auditory whoa's. Sort of a longish story but here goes anyway.(Southern accent) awwl rot! (alright). So, first thing's first, in order for me to use a computer I must use a Screen reader. I use Jaws 17, the most popular screen reader for Windows.

Unfortunately v17 isn't the most compatible for Windows 10 as opposed to version 18, but v17 was just what I have at the moment - another $1250 down the drain!Well, the audio on here was driving me absolutely crazy. Whereas on many of my older laptops Jaws sounds fine (i.e. with no audio enhancements), this one was super weird in that it sounded real muffled. No option to disable enhancements when I looked at Sound settings, so after doing some research,

I isolated the problem and have decided to use the High Definition Audio Device (not Realtek's driver, but the native Microsoft driver) as suggested by many people to eliminate that crappy audio effect. It helped, but every three seconds after Jaws would stop, the driver would shut down, and whenever Jaws starts speaking again, a loud and deafening POP would take over and I'd mis-hear half of what Jaws would say.Ok, more research then... (suspense emoji if there were such a thing)

The research led me to have to go into the Registry and set the Idlepowertime... ConcervationTime... (I believe, been so long it's hard to remember the name) to 00000000000 instead of 30000000000000000. 3 seconds that is.That has helped, except now there's another problem - which has happened before on this Laptop, I just was too focused on getting rid of that pop I hadn't noticed.One of the sounds Jaws comes with is a sharp click sound that I customized to play whenever Jaws comes upon a link.

On all my other laptops this click could be heard. On this one, however, it can't. The file lasts only about 1/64 of a second, and I've figured out that anytime a new sound is introduced - i.e. every time that link click sound plays - it fades the sound up, which causes the click to be a dead thump rather than a sharp click it was meant to be.I've explored almost every single setting on the audio driver in the registry but to no avail.

I used Studio Recorder, a blind-accessible audio editor, to see which levewl the fade stops. After amplifying the sharp click so it's at 0 DB, I decreased the volume in 0.1 DB increments. Once it reached -28.66 DB, the fading stopped and it was a sharp click, only this time a very low volume.So, from all this - how in the absolute haggis can you counteract this fading-in so I hear that sharp click at every volume level?

Note that all my audio enhancements are disabled, so it must be something along the lines of a bug in the driver perhaps. Right now, I can't tell if it's just text or if it's an actual link because of the quick fading up to the right level.

The click is too short for the fade.I'm desperate to fix this before I do anything else - audio is 100% of my world, and if there is even a slight imperfection, I'm not happy with it. Sure, I understand that this type of quick fade is useful when counteracting clicks at the beginning of bass-heavy audio, but this sharp click is different from that of a typical click. It's more like the sound of tapping a flashdrive on the table, not that dull electronic click comparable to plugging headphones in or something to that effect.

Thanks for the advice in advance!!MichaelPS.

For anyone that is also having problems with their audio popping, here is where you need to go. I'm not an expert, but I simply followed the guy's instructions from online.

First of all we have to change the driver from the default Realtek (the muffly crappy one0 to Microsoft's native driver. It's not too complicated.First go to Device Manager, and expand "Sound, Video and Game controllers". It does not appear in the Sound settings.Expand on your ddevice you're curretnly using, be it Headphones, Speakers etc.As a blind person who can't use a mouse, I press sSShift + F10.

There's an option called "Update Driver". Press Enter on that. There's an option to either Search automatically or browse my computer. You want Browse.

There will be an option at this point to Help me pick. Choose that one. Also make sure that Show compatible hardware is checked.If possible, select the option called High Definition Audio device. Once you do, the driver will update, or it will warn you about the update.

Pass that warning by either clicking OK or Yes, I can't remember exactly. Now it will either start up or you'll have to manually restart it. Now the audio shouldn't be muffled anymore, but the Pops are still there. This gets even more fun.From anywhere, press Windows key + R, type Regedit. (if you're blind, it's R, E, G, followed by the word Edit, no spaces). This puts you in the Registry editor.Here is the list of trees to expand. Or so Jaws calls them, they may not be trees visually...
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE - Right arrow to expand.
SYSTEM - Expand that.
CurrentControlSet - Expand that one.
ControlClass{4d36e96c-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
(this code may be different depending on your systemm, so try looking in every single spot to find it).
0006 (there are numbers like 0000, 0001, 0002, etc If you're new to this, it's best to tab over once when you're on one of those numbers, and look for the DriverDesk parameter in the list, it should read something like "High Definition Audio Device".Once you've found the right driverdesk, tab back to where you found the number and down-arrow until you hit "PowerSettings".

This tells the system to turn off the audio after a specific silence time has elapsed - NOT GOOD FOR BLIND PEOPLE!
Tab over to the parameters such as ConcervationTime, IdleTime, whatever it may be. Again I can't remember exact wording so forgive me...Replace any non-0 numbers with 0 in all of these fields.After that, go to File, Export. Call it something you'll remember, like "Audio.reg".

Once saved, close the Registry editor, go over to where you saved it, and in the blind world's case, press Enter on it. Windows will tell you it's successfully been added to the registry. Press OK.At this point it's best to restart and you'll find that there are no loud and deafening Pops.

However, what still concerns me to the nines is that this quick fading-up whenever any new audio turns on is still a real bother for me... again I can't tell if Jaws comes across a link, or plain text. Hope that has helped get your audio up and running at least somewhat. Now to counteract that stupid fade-up!

 

Yeah, for some reason whenever I type anything in, somehow those new-line characters are ditched. Sorry about that!I still haven't figured out this fading thing. It also happened when the RealTek driver was being used, so I'm sure it's probably something to do with the sound card itself. I do understand, however, why other people would like the fade effect, because it eliminates clicks, but the fade is too long - enough that I can't hear that click sound whenever Jaws comes across a link. I tried attaching it but to no avail...If I can't figure this out I think I'll contact Microsoft about it.

 

with realtek, ive always found it best to install the drivers direct from realtek. manufactures supplied drivers tend to be quite old

 

More on popping sounds here:
Windows 10 popping sound in speakers Solved - Page 3 - Windows 10 Forums

Several ideas on things to uninstall, and changing settings on chip power down time.

 

Well, I've successfully figured out removing the pops. The fading in is totally different, and it happens with all my audio drivers I have - not just the Realtek driver, but also Microsoft's native audio driver. It must be something with the sound card. By the way, my laptop I learned is a Dell Inspiron 15 3000 series, if that helps.

 

For those of you in need of the sharp click sound file, I've uploaded it to a server: filehosting.org | Download | link1.wav Try playing it over and over, it should be a sharp click sound. If it's a dull thump or thud, this is an indication that your sound card fades in. I'm trying to aleviate that fade. I suggest you don't loop it, but play it over and over manually. If it's a sharp click like it's meant to be, you're good.

 

Is anybody having any luck with the Link sound? Did you play it over and over? (not looping it, but manually playing it over and over)? How does it sound? Especially with the Microsoft driver? It's meant to be a sharp click, but if it's a dull thud, then this is probably the fault of either the sound card or the HD Audio driver from Microsoft. However, on my laptop it also happens with the Realtek driver as well.

 

Post a video of the issue

Then again, if you really care about sound quality, I suggest to use a virtual sound card to redirect all of the sound to it and straight to an external soundcard. You get a more consistent sound to it than using something like Realtek.

 

Well I've figured at least more of it out. Haven't eliminated the fade yet, but I did notice that whenever there is silence, even if a recording has silence in it, obviously there's no sound. However, when I turn down the recording in its own application, whenever it plays, there is a slight hiss that can be heard. Same thing with Jaws speaking - whenever it completes a word, the sound system stops rather than keeps going. On my old Toshiba, there was no hiss and it was always running. This might have something to do with it, who knows. Which would mean that, since it was always going, there was no fade. Guess I'll have to check my sister's laptop (she's running Windows 7) and check out the registry settings for her audio device. If the settings are different than mine I'll change them accordingly and get back to you on this. It has to either be the Concervation idle time, idle power state or performance idle time. Either way, setting at least one of these to a non-0 value causes it to make that deafening pop. I guess I'll need to get a different sound card (physically) if all else fails...

 

I discovered where exactly the problem arises but haven't figured out how to alleviate it.It has nothing to do with my installed audio drivers at all. Instead, it's likely the fault of my integrated sound-chip on the motherboard.It's interesting that in highschool, my HP laptop had the same brand of soundchip as this one, which is Intel. However, my old Toshiba laptop (I hope it's still recoverable...) had a Realtek. A Realtek soundchip is different than the REaltek driver, as the Realtek driver just adds some absolutely crazy (in the bad way)) audio effects that I just hate. Even the quick fading-in still happens when using Realtek, and when I revert back to the Microsoft HD audio driver (which is a step better than Realtek driver), it still fades up at the beginning of any sound. Also, whenever Jaws is speaking for example, there's a slight hissing noise that I notice. When Jaws is done speaking, that hiss sound is gone. If a recording is playing and there is silence at the beginning, there's no hiss even if the file is playing - once there is sound, however, the hiss starts. I'm sure that it fades up like this so that you don't get a click when the sound turns on, although this fade to conteract that click is way too long. That Link sound with Jaws is actually shorter in duration than the fade itself! That's why it's a dead thud rather than a sharp click.On my older Toshiba laptop before this one, there was no hiss, and nor was there any type of fading effect, because it used a Realtek soundchip rather than an Intel which both this one and my highschool HP laptop used. The HP laptop also had that same slight hissing effect, but there was no fading. Not sure how Dell could possibly integrate the Realtek soundchip on my motherboard, but there's something to try first.It's not a case of uninstalling and reinstalling either the Realtek drivers or the Microsoft HD Audio drivers - I'm sure it will make no difference in the fading effect - but there is a way to update the Bios before Windows starts, and the parameters for the Intel soundchip I believe are contained in the Bios. Maybe an update to the Bios will fix this... who knows. If not, well, time to call Dell and have them swap out a Realtek soundchip for this crazy Intel! Or I'll contact Intel about their integrated chip to see how I'd be able to counterat that fading effect which mutes that Link sound.
By the way, my old Toshiba laptop crashed and my Dad took it to a recycling center, so for one, I hope they didn't wipe the hard-drive, and 2, I wonder if that laptop is still possible to retrieve so I can put that old Realtek card into this one. Plus that hard drive had some important school assignments on there, and I was using it normally when all of a sudden Windows wouldn't detect anything. The store did a diagnostic test and there was absolutely nothing on it, so maybe they won't wipe the hard drive. However, Gillware Recovery says that this drive is totally recoverable. It made no "death beep" noises, it was making the normal sounds and spinning correctly. Maybe I shut the lid too hard...
This fading is just ridiculous. Let's see, maybe for you screenies, the fading effect would be like a new picture quickly fading in when it first appears, or if the screen flashes, the fade is so slow you don't even notice the flash. Obviously I can't really relate to this as I am blind, but I've tried my best to equate it to something most of you will understand. It's a great pity that we all live in a mostly visual world - at least to me. This is why fire alarms are deafening to me, since fire codes think that people will only react to something they hear regardless if they're paying attention or not. For blind people, simply having a fire alarm in the hallway (without having one in the room) is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more than enough to get our attention. So why the haggis put a fire alarm in the room that will literally turn you into Helen Keller? OMG!
Fair warning - I often ramble off-topic unconsciously.

 

On mine (the CU) it's a click. I have Realtek.

Note some people on the FCU are experiencing problems with Idle power time-out. (A change in driver specification) So one user demonstrated that if a sound was repeatedly played within than about 3s, the next time it played was fine. More slowly, the next time it played there was distortion.

There's a registry fix someone found to extend the time-out period. Maybe that's relevant for you. I'll see if I can find the post again.

A number of 'fixes' for sound problems experienced with Realtek here:
Windows 10 popping sound in speakers Solved - Page 3 - Windows 10 Forums

#30 was part of what I was thinking of.

 

Well, I already alleviated the popping noise through the Registry, don't know if you saw that yet. @dalchina I think since yours soundcard is a Realtek like my old Toshiba was, that's the reason why you get a sharp click when you play the file, and I get just a dead thump. Anyone have contact info for Intel? I don't think it's a problem with Dell, but better to check both places. By the way I'm not going to risk installing a soundcard on my own - this will require Jaws to stop due to there being no audio device, and I can't use a computer at all without Jaws! I always feel like I'm wasting somebody's time just having to rely on them to read the screen to me.