Windows 10: GeForce 341.95 Driver - WHQL - Seems Unstable?

I understood what you were saying, no need to apologize.

 

Yeah some how i got confused in all the talk about each version and not rereading the first post over, i am getting bit tired it was late.

 

Thanks
Once again, thanks all for the help! You are all so enthusiastic and knowledgeable!

 

Not at all, it wasn't you, it was me, I wrote too much in my first question, and didn't isolate the problem in asking it. I was the one who created the confusion. But I once again thank you for trying to reach out with help. Now I know for sure, if I run into any Windows 10 issues, I will come here and know I can get professional assistance!

 

Thanks and your welcome. One of your concerns was about hardware being compatible with 64bit OS. It basically comes down to the drivers for the hardware if the manufacturer has or makes 64bit drivers for it. Decent but older article.
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...64-bit-windows

Think i said before there can be other reasons for this to happen, other driver conflicts or hardware conflicts or hardware issues.
Blinking monitor was an older issue awhile back for some, try a different monitor, connection or cable also.

 

Thanks, I have been thinking of trying 64 bit on this machine, and know the CPU is 64 bit ready. I am just so afraid to do so, and have everything else that is hardware in the machine be un-usable. I definitely have a pretty solid working machine for what it is, outdated, and should be happy with it and leave it at that, but believe me, I would love to try 64 bit. I do have 64 bit PCs, at my office. When I come home and use this, wow, I see the difference, but still, that being said, this machine is pretty snappy for as old as it is, 2006, 10 y/o. I can't play the latest games on here at 60 fps, lol, but for web-surfing, some video and data editing which I do for work still, it does the job.

I feel like the article I read not too long ago, out nuclear facilities are running code for nuclear war heads using "Floppy-discs"... That is too funny! But maybe I will start a new thread being this is off topic a bit, and see what others think if I can or should upgrade to 64 bit OS. Thanks again for all your help. Amazing how generous everyone is with offering guidance and help.

 

Imho you should. Considering you just performed a clean install, better try 64-bit now than later. I would for sure... Back in 2008 I got a new, 64-bit laptop, and chose Vista 32 because the problems coming with 64-bit OSes were still recent. I have been regretting this, since it turned out that even some RAM-consuming 32-bit programs would have run better if only my system was 64-bit.

 

I put so much work and bought so many software programs I use specifically for work, I'd hate to loose all of them. But I do have 8 GB of RAM which could significantly beef up my performance. I will really have to think this out because on July 29, that is the end of Windows 10 FREE updates. What I might do, and I hate to rid of Windows 7 Ultimate, - maybe I'll do a clean install on the Portioned side where Windows 7 Ultimate resides. I hardly use that OS, but hate to rid of what I would call a l"Legacy" operating System... But, I could always revert back, correct?

Hmm, maybe I should give that a try!

 

"the Portioned side" - On the Partitioned side, sorry about my typos! I'm going to try this coming up this Friday or Saturday night, the 15th or 16th of July.... I'll let you know how it goes!!!

 

Make a fresh ISO/DVD/USB , the latest version of Win10 is .420 at least on 64bit , but I have fixed several Computers for friends who could not get .318 or .420 to load either, but other updates did.


Most 32bit software will run just fine in the 64bit environment , so really old stuff may need compatibility mode though.

 

I'm going to give it a try this weekend. Forgot that some programs are backwards compatible. It has to replace Windows 7 on the other side of the partition, hate to get rid of that. I'm just wondering how a partitioned drive would handle 32 bit on one side, and 64 bit on the other, all using the same hardware. Giving a boost to get 8 GB of RAM might be worth it all, and having the Pentium D really wouldn't matter at that point. choices/decisions... Its tough being I have it working well on the 10 Pro side. and yes, I do have .420 (1511 10586.420) on the Windows 10 Pro side of the partition, 32 bit. I got the ISO and Media Tool already created. I did a clean install when I had issues doing an upgrade, probably because of that older Nvidia Card.

 

I swapped out the older Nvidia graphics card for a newer one, nothing crazy, just an MSI GeForce 730 GT with GDDR5 - works fantastic and would highly recommend that specific version for older PCs - just the right $ to spend with not much trade off. Anything more, you'd be throwing money out the door, as this is perfect and specifically made for older PCs with CPUs that are showing signs of age. MSI did a great job with this,better than any of the others, and it is the only 730 with GDDR5 in it. Solved! Thanks for the help!!!

 

Hi jaxxxx - you must go 64-Bit!

One of my computers is an antique PC, but in operating system terms I have moved it all the way from Windows XP 32 Bit to Windows 8 then 64-Bit Windows 8 then to 64-Bit 8.1 and now onto 64-Bit Windows 10 - the performance increase on 64-Bit operating systems when you have been using a 32-Bit O/S on the same hardware is massive, mostly (afaik) due to the efficiency gain of 64-Bit hardware natively talking to 64-Bit operating system.

The improvement on a Laptop I moved from 32 to 64-Bit Windows 7 was fantastic - even battery life somehow improved - its now on 64-Bit Windows 10!

I keep that antique computer running to avoid having to pay for nearly £4,000 of new licence's for the same range of specialized software.

All but one of the programs work fine on 64-Bit.

The only piece of hardware that was not 64-Bit compatible (no manufacturer driver) was a Hayes analogue modem - that kept working (but slightly slower) with a generic windows modem driver till I bought a MultiTech modem which has 64/32 Bit drivers from the manufacturer.

The program with a 64-Bit issue instead runs on a 32-Bit virtual machine on the 64-Bit antique PC.

Simplest way to experiment with 64-Bit is to get a spare Hard Disk (unplug your HDD & plug in the spare blank HDD in its place) and clean install whatever flavour of 64-Bit Operating system on that, try it out make sure it works and then layer on drivers, then software and all of a sudden you often find everything just works!

Ignore the old and limited drivers (LAN, Chipset, Sound, AHCI etc.) offered by your motherboard manufacturer - research the actual makers (in my case Marvell, Intel, Realtek, Intel again) of the chips on the motherboard etc. that need drivers and look directly at the chip manufacturers websites instead they all have drivers on them - motherboard makers / PC makers have an obvious vested interest in not giving you the latest 64 bit drivers - they would sooner you bought another Motherboard / PC. In any case the drivers your manufacturer gives you in the first place are just disguised slightly repackaged drivers from the manufacturers of the actual microchips involved.

Try it let me know what happens.

Is your Computer Monitor Faulty?

One of my LCD DVI Widescreen monitors went faulty by compressing the picture so 2 inches was missing down the right hand side OR nothing was visible except for 4 inches on the left hand side (everything was compressed into that space) OR massively magnified on a small area of the display AND what can only be described as going out of focus to varying levels of blurriness - I thought all that was my graphics card / graphics drivers - Nope it was the monitor - leave computer running power cycle the monitor and picture is suddenly fine again - I rebuilt that monitors power supply and the fault never came back.

What kind of heat-sink does your graphics card have?

My original (long ago sold off) NVidia GE6600 (Connectors:- DVI, VGA & Breakout Box Connector for Component HD Output) had a factory fitted silent (fan-less) passive heat-pipe cooler assembly it worked fine but sparkles eventually started appearing on the monitor so sold it off before it cooked itself to death. Replaced it with a brand new NVidia GTS250 (Connectors:- DVI 1, DVI 2 & Breakout Box...) that had an all aluminium cooler with fan - hopeless cooler even though it was a reference design - it caused random graphics hangs under any load all summer long.

At this point in time my now 10 year old Motherboard started eating BIOS batteries (all brands expensive & cheap) and then also developed repeated Cold Boot time BIOS total amnesia. I concluded one of the Capacitors was internally short circuited and draining the BIOS battery overnight so I wielded the soldering iron and replaced (and upgraded) all 65 Motherboard capacitors - BIOS amnesia & battery eating fixed BUT Graphics problems the same as before so.....

What finally fixed it was an NVidia GTX285 graphics card (Connectors:- DVI 1, DVI 2 & Breakout Box...) ironically it was a second hand graphics card bought from eBay it works perfectly BUT it does have the best cooler - again it is a reference design card and stock reference design factory cooler blowing its hot air out of the back of the case (next to the graphics card connectors) BUT this graphics card cooler is totally different to the GTS250's - it is similar to Intel's stock Aluminium CPU coolers - that all have a "puck" of solid copper touching the CPU embedded in the aluminium heat sink to spread the heat faster into the aluminium - while the GTX285 has a huge slab of copper with six liquid filled copper heat pipes directly touching the GPU chip (discovered this when I replaced the thermal grease before putting GTX285 into use) and aluminium (car radiator style) fine fins soldered to the heat pipes - 2 years later still all working perfectly!

Regards.

 

Having exact the same problem, gives only BSODs. Disabling them and everything works fine, is there a solution so I can use it?

 

Use What ? 341.95? if yes update the Driver to 368.81 if a newer card.

Nvidia has dropped support for many older cards so you may need to go back to an older Driver if that is the case.