Windows 10: How to tell if your Power Surge Protector Fails ?

Hey ,Everyone general question how can you tell if a Power Surge Protector is dying

It seems that i am having a issue with mine

#1 Random shut downs and restarts

#2 Computer attempts to turn on but power dies ,I'll ,move the stripe power comes back

These are the two most common things i have seen with this situation it's been happening off and on randomly

It isn't the PSU by the way i have two at my Disposal 1600w Evga and 1000w Evga G2 so at this point just wondering if my findings are true before i go out and purchase one which i think i should just do anyway

Thoughts ?

:)

 

Computer charger stopped working

Power surge protector also known as spike buster also work the same way to protect other electronic devices. There are fuses in side surge protector and the fuse
will get blown by the spike of current during power surge. Well if you have, say five outlets on the surge protector and if you encounter power surge, then the only thing that gets damaged is the one fuse inside your surge protector. All your devices' fuse
and the device itself will not be affected by the power surge. So now, what you have to do is just change the fuse for the surge protector. And again these surge protectors and of course including mostor surge protector come with spare fuse, so replacing fuse
is easy and quick.

 

nokia 6280 charger

Have all the chargers failed in your home?

If so try plugging them into a surge protector and see if the next charger lasts.

I've only ever had one nokia charge die in 9 years and that was lost to a power surge.

 

Power Strips/Power Taps are not the proper thing to use with electronics, should be Surge Protectors. Surge Protectors are designed to trip when experiencing power surges/bumps and can fail at some point, if in doubt replace it. In my experience a Surge Protector will cost $25.00USB or more while the others will much less. The back of the device will say which it is and give ratings. I have seen where the polarity of wiring in older buildings was reversed, can cause problems. Testers can be found relatively inexpensive at hardware stores. Same when using the older Dial-up Modem Internet connections when the phone jacks had the wires reversed, a phone would work but not the Modem. As for the 1600W power supply, if having other things plugged into the wall sockets you may be reaching the limit of the circuit feeding the room. The circuit breakers are usually rated at 15Amps or about 1800Watts. Pulling more power than that would definitely be a safety hazard if the breaker doesn't trip with an overload.

 

Smell it and check the colour. I have had UK ones but most of my plugs are European (which have round plugs slightly wider than the UK holes). They go brown (burning dust across bad contacts I guess) and smell a bit before they break.

If not plug in something and measure the resistance but I don't know if that would help as the current would be so low it would probably prove nothing.

 

Can it really? I thought AC meant it didn't matter and +ve and -ve wires were the same as they swapped 50 times a second or whatever. You don't have DC circuits in the states do you? I'm not an electrician obviously.

 

Well let me rephrase that it's a belkin surge protector but it's like 8 years old now something like 100,000 joules

Also i don't even think i'm pulling a 1000w from the wall to be honest i just have it because of sli requirements and power hungry CPU's i own

 

Yes, even with AC correct polarity can matter. Things where it may not matter is with resistive devices such as lamps. Modern wiring [required by building codes] in the US is 3 wire, positive, neutral and ground.

 

In theory you are correct - a particular AC device doesn't care if the polarity was switched.

However, there are practical wiring and safety concerns. For instance, in the US we get 240V household service but most appliances use 120V. To get 120V from 240V service we get a center-tapped neutral wire connected to earth ground - Split-phase electric power - Wikipedia - so that 120V appliances are connected to one hot wire and the neutral wire.

The neutral wire is connected to local ground so it is inherently safer than the hot. Many design decisions are based on that assumption. For instance, light switches always switch the hot wire - if the wiring were reversed and it switched the neutral, that means the lamp would still be connected to 120V even when switched off (but there would be no current flowing because the neutral is open). Also having reversed wiring would flip the phase by 180 degrees but most household appliances don't really care if they are out of phase.

Note that this is based on US electrical service - I don't know what it's like in the EU.

 

It's about same way in EU except standard household voltage is nominally 220v. My house service is 3 phase + neutral + ground. Any two phases are 380v, any phase + neutral or ground is 220v.
In some cases neutral and ground are one and same and in those cases polarity can matter with some devices, mostly ones that do not have separate ground.
Standard polarity in wall plugs is: Left should be phase, Right Neutral and ground connection varies from country to country.

 

Surge protectors often have red or green lights on them to shows protection is active, when the light goes dim that’s a warning to say the protection is failing & time to buy a new one.

 

I'm actually closing the Thread

I found out my wall socket wasn't grounding properly so i went and had it fixed i noticed it when the red light for not grounded flashed

So with that being said the problem wasn't the Surge protector it was the wall socket itself it must of gotten loose but what ever the case my Surge protector is running back to smooth green