Windows 10: rebooting while playing videos or netflix

Right, no BSOD, just rebooting

I thought maybe the PSU too, so I replaced the earthwatts 650 with a EVGA 750

 

I mean, does it give enough power?
You can replace the PSU, but if it doesn't give enough it is useless

 

OK, updated

 

OP's CPU is only 17 Watts and has an IGPU for graphics. MB has a Realtec sound chip only thing else are the SSD maybe an ODD and 1 tb metal drive ( maybe a wifi USB ) , KB and mouse a 200W power supply can run all that and much more 24/7 .

Is the OP using the win 10 Netflix UI app or a browser to play Netfix ?

Sometimes the Netflix UI app is unstable and closes or hangs but no BSOD or re boot happens it just hangs or closes and at the worstb you can log out /log into your session and re start the app without a re start .

Any unusuall processess or malware running when platong a video Task manager (even beter) >,Auto Runs or Procman are good tools along with a Malwarbytes scan .

OP might look in installed programs for a funky video player or something like that from a torrent site ?

Edge can be unstable also but it wont cause a re boot when it hangs . Best bet for Netflix is IE 11 it supports 1080P Netfix eyefinity encodes chrome is limited to 720P on Netflix .

I would also suggest the OP use VLC to play video files or DVD's How is it on You Tube in a browser ?

Is the CPU fan working and how about the CPU thermal paste too much /too little or wrong kind ?
OTOH if it runs prime 95 those are probably OK .

OTOH it could be a driver issue mighb look at the windiws installed upate history in C.P. not update setings and see if it updated some drivers sometimes it picks the wrong ones or just re install some new sound and video drivers from the vendors or MB vendor .

 

The 3.3v, 5v and 12v are necessary too to have correct.
If they are too high, or too low, the motherboard is either way getting problems and so there is a restart or shut down to prevent problems.

 

Good point then maybe the OP has a DVM but if a rail is sagging only when playing a video it would likley not work or POST at all anyway the CPU is only 17 watts and that includes the IGPU .

I would think its more software at point though and the 3.3 and 5V ( to the board ) can vary anyway within tolerence by as much as almost a volt on the 5V rail or .5 V sometimes on the 3.3 V rail same for TV's

OTOH if there is a bad VR or electrolytic overvolting /undervolting somewhere it could be either the PSU or MB .

Lastly OTOH if it runs prime 95 torture test the voltages are probably OK though that will stress it more than 1080p video in a minute .

 

The 3.3, 5 and 12v can indeed vary, that is why it is good to have those values max around 3% or 5% of their values, depending on what the manufacturer of the mainboard says about it.
@copracr, please post a photo of these values.

 

OP has same problem with a 650W and 750W PSU and a 17 Watt CPU/IGPU unless he got those PSU's out a dumpster or new Egg refurb it's a long shot both are bad . (ofc not imopossible ) but if they run in another PC or mainboard they are probably fine.

OTOH bad drivers can sometimes cause re boots or even totally hose the OS altogether .

EDIT if I'm reading your system specs above my wattage figures are going to be off ☻☻

 

Yes indeed, but usually it would cause a BSOD.

 

Looks like I was reading your system specs in the example you posted .... my bad .

OTOH If the OP's system specs are current he's going to need more than 200 watts but 650 should be fine with the system in his specs and an unintended re boot can certainly point to HDWE or (sometimes) software ☻

I wonder if the OP has a DVM or another box to try out the PSU's in .

I'm still thinking two bad PSU are a lonsgshot although not impossible but if they worked on the old MB and the symptom showed only on the new configutration ?

 

That is just a real example of how it could be done *Wink

With replacing components, it is always best to check if everything is as it should be.

 

Sure but :

FWIW I had a bad sound driver totally hose a Windows 10 Insider test build about 3 days in when Windows decided to update it , a clean install with the previous drivers I installed at first fixed it still using them on 10547 and RTM in a dual boot configuration on this box . You could be right though it could be HDWE a DVM would be some help at least on the PSU rails .

Maybe the PSU has more Rails and unused connectors he could try also ?

 

No offense, but do you mind writing full words?
I don't always understand the abbreviations.

 

Sure no problem , PSU is "power supply unit" and FWIW is " for what it's worth" and DVM is "digital volt ohm meter "and VR is "voltage regulator " and RTM as it applies here is " Windows 10 release to manufacture build "or the Windows 10 versions outside of the Windows 10 Insider test builds .

 

I am aware of most of them, like PSU and DVM, but not all *Wink