Windows 10: rebooting while playing videos or netflix

It also reboots when playing Pandora through firefox. Netflix reboots on edge, firefox, and chrome. VLC reboots as often as WMP.

Here's a screenshot attached. I watched these values in another program while running Skyrim and they weren't any different. I replaced the PSU anyways because Nvidia said 650w was too small to run their 650ti. I upgraded to the 750ti in case it was the GPU though
.Attachment 41450

 

AFAIK The 750 GTI is a 60 Watt max TDP card at full tilt and your CPU ( AMD Phenom ( II X6 1045T) if your specs are curent maybe 95 watts at full tilt , a Hdd or two aint nothing neithter is an ODD or the Mothrboard and a few fans a 650W PSU should be fine .

OTOH a 750W PSU cant hurt. I think you have a driver problem or an underlying windows problem or MB issue (although I think that would be last thing to consider since it othewise loads windows .The CPU votages seem OK .....you running a test build or RTM , Overclocking &,volting + or - @ the CPU .

OTOH in your image I'm not sure about the 12v, 5v and 3.3 v rail, voltages they could be off if thats what they are showing if it's acurate and I'm reading it correctly , that could be bad VR's on the mainboard or a PSU sagging or a bad ground or cold solder joint somewhere maybe a something in the wave soldering tank when they made the board ?*Eek

These are some of the CPU electrical specs on the CPU :
Electrical / Thermal parameters V core ? 1.075V - 1.375V (at rated frequency)
1.225V - 1.425V (Turbo Core mode)
0.975V - 1.175V (Minimum performance state) V NorthBridge 1.05V - 1.175V Maximum operating temperature ? 55°C - 71°C Thermal Design Power ? 95 Watt Notes on AMD Phenom II X6 1045T

• On socket AM2+/AM3 platforms in the minimum performance state the processor runs at 800 MHz core voltage and has TDP 47.1 Watt

[1] - These characteristics were measured on a single CPU, and they can vary slightly for other processors with the same model number
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AM...5TWFK6DGR.html


New Insider build is coming out probably thurs /friday give or take it might fix your stuff . OTOH an in place update probably wont change your drivers . If you can interrupt the download before the Windows update starts I've read you could get an image of that new test build for a clean install there is a tutorial here about that .
Meanwhile I would get some fresh drivers from nvidia and realtec and try that then a few cold beers after you run the drivers in and call us in the morning or later ☻☻

Oh can you post some event viewer critical error and application fault logs like the VLC and sound and pandora or whatever browser or application fails ?

 

i did a clean install with new drivers from from gigabyte for the MB and Nvidia for the graphics. I can certainly post that info you requested, but how do I find it?

 

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...#1TC=windows-7

should be same except rt click start button > select conrtol panel >open event viewer

 

Found event viewer

I took some screen shots (don't mind the kids watching a show on the second screen). What should I be looking for?

 

The 3.3, 5 and 12v values are way too low.
Likely the cause of the reboots.

For now, forget about drivers, programs and event logs and focus on increasing the voltages

 

Axe0, if you need some help, please let me know. But, ATX Standards are that the rails must be +/- 5% of the rated value. The best place to get the voltage readings in in BIOS. They are much more accurate than software. If you need some help, let me know. But, don't confuse Volts, Amps and Watts. They are different. You can have a 1000W PSU, and your computer can pull only 300 W, but if the +12V only puts out 10V, your computer will not run well, if at all.

 

I'll hold off posting the error log stuff until you can check some voltages or unless you want me to post it anyway just for future refernce but if your mainboard is acurate you are definitly undervolting and a video card playing a video and the CPU will need the correct volts and current .

I was thinking you might be right ( if the mainboard is reporting volts accuratly ) the PSU rails all look way to low like you say while the CPU volts are barely in range they could certainly be a lot higher even at stock clock speeds as well .

A Digital Volt Meter would be nice to confirm undervolting and also to check the voltage at the wall plug in case there is a bad connection or wire nut in a junction box or the outlet box or a fautly surge protector or F.... up board ?

I had to re wire a couple of houses I owned trust me they can do strange things on any given circiuit with something as simple as a bad wire nut some where in a daisy chained circuit in a junction box ,switch box or outlet box anywhere along the chain for that circuit .


Maybe before we get too far along try the PC plugged in directly to the wall outlet if it isn't already maybe its a bad surge protecter strip or to many things on one strip ? .

OP (origional poster) mentuined he had a TV , a monitor and the PC (probably powered speakers also ) I would put the PC straight into the wallsocket with its own surge strip if testing bears that out and the rest on another strip or maybe something like powered speakers on the same strip as the PC but maybe not those can have noisy wall warts or maybe run an extensiion cord for the PC into another circiut in another room or hallway and see what shakes out ? Then if it shows the room circiut is undervolting get after the wire nuts ,breaker or call an electrician he might have a resistive (faulty ) breaker also but not bad enough to open .


As you know when the CPU ( processer ) and GPU ( video card or chip ) are playing video especially HD they will demand volts and currents well above surfing a web page or typing an office doc .

I'll hold off posting the error log stuff until the OP can check some voltages or put in a known good PSU or unless he wants me to post it anyway for refernce ..

Maybe OP got bad luck having two bad PSU's but it can happen or maybe its not getting the right AC volts from the wall outlet or surge strip being common to both PSU's and all. ???

Good points specially about the BIOS I never thought of that . OTOH a cheap or faulty 1000 w PSU can undervolt just as easily when it only needs to put out 300w like you say .

 

I sure will do essenbe *Smile

That is what I thought after our last conversation about test software, but I wasn't 100% sure.

@blutos cousin, lets first focus on the PSU before we check the software, logs and other stuff *Smile

@copracr, for the reminding.

 

Right .... that sounds good thats why I didnt post the event viewer instructions. I think the PSU or mains voltage is the right track now if the volts are actually that low and the symptoms alighn with that like you said from the beginning .

Actually with the rail volts that low I'm suprised if it POST and loads windows at all ☻


@

How come I didn't think of that ? *Confused

 

Any news from the OP ?

 

I don't know, but with a sudden reboot/shutdown the first step is to determine if the power source (battery/psu(bios voltages)) has problems

 

Tonight I'll be working on checking the PSU. I'll report back my results

 

I haven't gotten time to work on the PSU issue yet, but I did get a BSOD with a dump file last night. I'll attach it here, let me know if it helpsAttachment 42250

If my PSU is bad, I'm still not convinced it would be the source of this trouble. It started the day I put in the new motherboard in (which could have also been the day my PSU went south from moving it around I suppose). Also, It only reboots when sound is playing. Just today I had it reboot while watching a 10 sec video on facebook.

 

I did some digging on the PSU issue.

I plugged the PSU into the wall, then ran an extension cord from the other room to plug everything else into so the circuit would have as little as possible on it.

I pulled out my DVOM and checked one of the spare molex connectors in the case and came up with 12.25v. I wasn't sure where 3v and 5v could be accessed from. I then went into bios and got the following values from there:
CPU vcore 1.296
DramV 1.512
+3.3 3.34
+5 5.04
+12 12.312

rebotted the PC and started HWMonitor up and it's still showing low V across the board. I'm thinking HWMonitor is wrong? I have the side of the case open and while HWMonitor shows 8.12V I can put my DVOM on the molex and get 12.25.