Windows 10: regarding blue screen after upgrade

The "ALT" and "F10" try didn't work, but I did anyway get something like this http://www.groovypost.com/wp-content...9/sshot-33.png to show. After mainly the third option would be chose, would you recommend that just the drive which Wind ows was installed on or all the drives be removed? This http://media.askvg.com/articles/imag..._Windows_8.png can generally give someone an idea what it's like.

 

Okay then, there is no MS account associated with this laptop.

Then probably the safest assumption here is that the system never activated.

Using ShowKeyPlus, as I mentioned above.

No, and it's not something you'd want to post on a public forum either.

The system itself? Sure. You can restore it to factory condition (W8 - and upgrade to W8.1 if necessary); you can even try to upgrade it again to W10 and see if it works/activates. If you can't get any Windows operating system to install and activate, you can always load a Linux operating system.

The person from Acer will tell you to purchase a set of recovery disks, to put the system back to factory condition (W8), which you can do on your own without buying the disks, using the recovery partition on the hard drive (as long as it's not corrupted).

(Showing your picture here.) The third option would put the system back to factory condition.

At this point, if you are putting the system back to factory condition, I would say "all drives", so that nothing is left from W10 at all, that could mess things up.

 

The instructions you mentioned.

Have directions about how to do this?

Any suggestions you have about how to do this?

Yeah, but my point is that those options were a result of something other than the "ALT" and "F10" attempt.

This could have already been attempted but I guess it's worth another try.

 

Just now I decided to wait until someone recommends which of the choices mentioned here https://www.winhelp.us/images/window...esetfull05.jpg should be used. Of course, I want the laptop to remain here, but anybody have any thoughts on this?

 

Does it matter whether or not an Internet signal is on giving the laptop access to it during any of these processes?

Also, any suggestions about it would be a more effective option to choose from between these two https://www.winhelp.us/images/window...esetfull05.jpg sorts of options?

 

Just remove my files, if you're keeping the system.
Internet or no, in a restore to factory condition, it won't make a difference, until the OS is restored, and the system needs to update.

 

Does it matter if the laptop is not connected to the Internet during this option? Also, will you please be more specific about what keeping that system is? If it means keeping files for instance, then I really don't want to keep them that much.

If the option above doesn't work, then I'll possibly try the factory option, even though I don't plan to send the laptop somewhere with this option. What does "OS" stand for? What exactly is the difference between "keeping" and "recycling" the PC in this sense? What doesn't make sense for me is that there seems to be this idea of literally sending the laptop somewhere in a box (mailing it) with the factory option.

 

No it does not need to be connected to the internet. There is a difference between just deleting files, or securely deleting them. If you are giving the system (laptop) away, or selling it, you'd want to securely delete the files.

OS = Operating System.
Keeping means you are keeping it. Recycling means you are not keeping it. Restoring the system to factory condition means putting it back the way it was when first purchased.

 

Putting it back to how it was when first purchased seems to be recommended for if you plan to get rid of it, but you can likely still use this option without actually planning to get rid of it and if you really don't want to keep the old files that much. So that's what I plan to try really soon. If the percent does not reach a hundred, and the screen just goes blank and I have to restart the laptop to try another option, at least I'll be very sure about what does not work, which can obviously get me closer to what does. This can be like a checklist. If this doesn't work, then I plan to try that other option in the last URL that I put here.

What can be confusing is if it seems that a certain option is meant specifically for recycling.

Just to be sure, none of the options including the ones besides the ones on the last URL that I put here require that the laptop is connected to the Internet when carried out, correct?

 

Here's a summary of what I want to try really soon just so there's no confusion. From this https://social.technet.microsoft.com...getfile/395547 kind of list of options, I want to select the troubleshoot one. This http://cdn.makeuseof.com/wp-content/...oot.png?32bb66 kind of screen would come up. The choice to reset the PC would be selected. Then, the third option from this http://www.groovypost.com/wp-content...9/sshot-33.png sort of screen would be selected. From this https://www.winhelp.us/images/window...8.repair20.jpg screen, all the drives is to be selected. Then, the second option can be chosen from this http://www.eightforums.com/attachmen...-a-delete-.jpg sort of screen.

 

The option to reset the PC was selected, and it has that it's restoring to the factory settings with seventeen percent so far next to it. It previously said to be sure the PC is plugged. This option is supposed to put it back to Wi ndows 8. Now, my biggest concern with this is that it'll remain stuck at a certain percent and the screen could become blank without it reaching a hundred percent. It could restart with the original options on its own. Does anyone have an explanation for this, and how to prevent it?

 

There's a disk that I could put in while this option is happening, but I'm not sure if it's worth the try. It's supposed to work for both 32 and 64 bit kinds of Wi ndows 8, and it seems to be a recent version. The disk appears different than what's online which you can see here Amazon.com: 2 BOOT DISKS for RESTORE 64 bit for now, but I'm really sure that this is the product I ordered for $13.48 total. It has that March 28, 2016 was when I purchased it. Here's a message I sent to the seller.

"Did you send a DVD for a 32 and 64 bit and Wi ndows 8 which is a third version and edition for 2016? It looks different than what's presented online.

Also, do you think this DVD would be helpful for this regarding blue screen after upgrade - Windows 10 Forums kind of situation? My username is "" there and I started that topic."

That seller might visit this forum and start posting.

Also, I'm thinking about contacting sellers if different discs like what's on here windows 8 system recovery disk 32/64 bit windows 2016 - Google Search and showing them this topic on this forum. Maybe they can post here as well or help me with this.

Anyway, unfortunately it looks like with that option is still at seventeen percent, with those dots looking like they're moving in a circle. Did anybody here have something like this happen?

Here's another message I sent.

"The disks that show online seemingly have a a blue and red background, and the disk that I mentioned in that message does not have that blue and red background. Also, if you looked through the forum posts, you might have seen that I'm not completely sure if it upgraded to a Wi ndows 10 right before those options started to come up."

What I really don't want is to purchase a Wi ndows 10 disk meant for recovery and it ends up failing.