Windows 10: Wifi fine, but no internet - keeps happening

Hi, I have a home-built PC running Windows 10 Pro 64 bit, with an ASUS Z97-Deluxe motherboard. I've had it working at my home for over a year but recently moved it into an office at a completely different location running fibre broadband (by BT/British Telecom). For the first few months, everything was fine, apart from the odd internet disconnect and then reconnect.

In the last week or two, I'm now frequently getting the wifi and internet dropping out and the wifi reconnects straight away, but then it either goes to No Internet, or it says it's connected but when I try to actually do something, like load a webpage, it hangs forever and eventually goes to No Internet. When this happens, my Android phone on the same wifi connection reconnects without problems.

I have followed the cmd ipconfig resetting procedures listed in this article and most times this has worked, but it keeps happening and I don't know what the problem is and how to stop it happening. It's getting really annoying now. As far as I know, my Windows is up to date, and I have also tried turning AVG firewall off and it doesn't help. I haven't yet tried doing anything with the Network Adapter drivers. Could that be the issue?

Thanks, Mark

:)

 

Wi-Fi is on // No connection (after Windows Update)

On Oct 13 windows updated.

The update must've invited malware into my computer. I tried to run my antivirus after the update but it said there's no connection. Google chrome lost connection as well and then I got a pop-up saying that Windows Defender found and blocked a "Severe Trojan
threat". So I deleted it and I still don't have connection... (weirdly) the only thing that works is the Explorer app. I have internet; the Wi-Fi works just fine but, everything else doesn't connect. It's something internal that must be causing
the problem and it all started after the update.

P.S.

It also changed my network from private to public so I had to fix that.

And YES, I did allow these programs through the Firewall so that's not the problem.

 

Samsung Focus S data connection problem

I just got a Samsugn Focus S with Mango installed and I've noticed that the phone sometimes has trouble getting on the Internet. After messing around with the connecitons it seems that after turning off the cell data connection and keeping wifi on everything
works fine (and vice versa)...the phone seems to get hung up when both cell data and wifi are in use. This doesn't happen every single time, but a number of times throughout the day.



Has anyone else seen this happen?

 

Hi, try e.g. Wifiinfoview (free) to see how your PC perceives the strength of the signal it's receiving.

 

Download my script here, when you have the issue run the script and upload the log it creates on your desktop. https://windowsforum.com/threads/net...mation.223812/

 

Thanks guys. I'll have a go next time and report back.

 

Are you using BT's Gateway with Wifi or did you hook up your own behind the BT equipment that they install with their service?

 

There's a black BT wifi router and also an additional white router or modem or something. I'm not really sure why there's two boxes as i'm just renting a desk in someone else's office and I didn't set up the broadband connection myself.

 

The Fiber connects to a ONT. Then you have the Gateway that is to convert the data from the ONT to Computer, Phone and if they offer TV, it would also use IPTV to connect to the TV boxes. After the Gateway it should just be an Access Point.

You need to check your signal quality and any channel congestion issues. Android OS does have tools like inSSIDer in Google Play store. For Windows and Mac OS there is inSSIDer. If you want to check quick and dirty from the Windows Command Terminal, just open Command and in it enter netsh wlan show all

If you have the Fritz box, a lot of people with BT have stated that they have had issues with that unit. Info on BT's Fibre service is Fibre Optic Broadband: Getting Connected - BT Equipment (fibre optic broadband)


Computer wifi disconnects are usually caused by the piss power cheap antenna that they use for Wifi on laptops. It is just a wire with a piece of foil at the end. External USB adapters for laptops work better if you have enough range and power with the access point. If not, you can add a more powerful access point like the EnGenius ECB350, which is Wireless-b/g/n 2.4GHz. I am using their EAP1750H Wireless-ac capable with 2.4GHz/5GHz. Both have a lot of power for range.

 

Thanks for the info. The white box is a BT Openreach router and the black box is a BT Home Hub. My PC is a desktop, with an ASUS Z97-Deluxe motherboard with a "2T2R Dual Band 2.4/5GHz antenna. 802.11ac* Wi-Fi up to 867Mbit/s* transfer speed". The desktop is about 3 metres away from the Home Hub with no walls in between. When I had the PC at home, the wifi worked through a wall without problems, so I'm pretty sure my PC hardware is not to blame. I suspect it is either the Home Hub or the software.

 

Do you have an external antenna attached to the desktop to allow you to place it up high on the desk, or is it a antenna built onto the motherboard with the option to add one on the connector that is where the antenna is

Open up a command window and run the following (without quotes) "netsh wlan show all". It will list every access point you are seeing, your power and signal info for your adapter and all access points, channels and strengths. Tools like inSSIDer are nice, because you can walk around with a laptop and get a general reading of signals and any overlap from neighboring access points. It is a good real time tool.

 

I have the antenna attached and sitting on top of my desktop PC case, which is itself resting on the floor. All that's in the way is 1 desk and I have full strength wifi signal.

I ran inSSIDer Home and my network has a signal strength of around -39 dBm which is most of the time the strongest signal. It is on 802.11n 2.4GHz band with 6 co-channel networks and 1 overlapping network and my link score is 42.

When I run "netsh wlan show all" what do I actually need to be looking for? There is a TON of data and most of it is swahili to me.

P.S. The white Openreach box is made by ICE Telecom Ltd
Item code: 061513
Description: NGA ICE CPE MODEMS TYPE 1B
ECI Model: B-FOCUS V-2Fub/r Rev.B

Also, what I thought was a BT Home Hub is actually a BT Business Hub 3.0.

 

You are looking at your adapter Noise and RSSI. Also looking for any Access Points that may be close enough to you to cause signal issues. With you being in the UK, you have some other channels to choose from. There are some info that I came across after I updated the Firmware on my Access Point I use. It was stating that we should now be using channel 3 instead of 1, 6, 11. The Channel Bandwidth can be an issue if you cannot set it to 40mhz, because you have older equipment that still needs Wireless B or G on the legacy 20mhz channel bandwidth.

 

bro67, you are beginning to lose me with geek speak there. I accept that I may not have perfect wi-fi signal, but what I have a problem with is that when I get the "wifi, no internet" problem, my PC says it's connected to wifi no problem and my Android phone can connect to the wifi AND the internet. Is this problem common to all Windows 10 PCs or is there something specifically wrong with mine? I guess I could bring my laptop to work, but i'd probably have to run that test for about 1-2 weeks, which is not great, as my wife uses the laptop at home.

 

It is hard to explain on this, unless you have done some searching. You can check out the videos on Metageek's page at WiFi Training and Eductation by MetaGeek Cisco's stuff is so outdated and gets way too technical. Think of your wifi Access Point like a Radio station and your desktop as your radio. When you are trying to get the best clearest signal, you find yourself moving the antenna, moving the Access Point higher on the wall or even relocating it to where the best signal is in the building.

When you have interference, it is like when you listen to the radio and at certain times of the day or night, another radio station around that same frequency will start bleeding in. You also see this a lot with tv using an antenna to pick up stations and at night you may get a strong enough signal from a neighboring tower that is on the edge of the tower you normally can pick up, so it causes interference.

The higher -dbm, the better quality signal. The RSSI should be below 60. That is kind of like the fine tuning when getting the radio station on your ham radio or am radio tweaked to where the noise is low enough that it does not cause the programming to be hard to hear.

When you are looking at inSSIDer, you want to sort first by Channel, with Channel 1 at the top to see how many radios your WiFi adapter can see on each channel. Then you want to change the Signal to make the lowest number at the top. That is the best quality and most clear signal with very few packet errors that you can get the fastest speeds.

My main Wireless-b/g/n/ac Access Point that I use, which is set for Channel 3 for the 2.4ghz Radio, with Channel Bandwidth set for 40mhz, Channel 100, 104, 108, 112 is used on my 5ghz radio, Channel Bandwidth set for 80mhz. My Macbook uses channel 100 with channel 3. At that setting I get between -25dbm to -32dbm, which I actually sit about 4' from it. Even if I go to another room, it stays usually below -45dbm.

The closes radio to me is my neighbors on both sides of our house. Those radios are usually in the 70's or 80's. Their Access Points are maybe 75' from where I sit. I have one other Access Point in my house, but that is reserved for only a Wireless-b radio in our Thermostat, so it tends to stay in the 40's, which I am not worried about, since it is just for letting the portal that I use to send temperature programs to it, is the only thing that I really need the wifi access to it for.

To honestly tell you, I am still learning something new about Wifi, since we are gearing up to seeing 5G & 6G, along with the newer Wireless generation of Wireless-ah or 802.11ah. That means that the manufacturers will be pushing new equipment that can handle the firmware for wireless-ac, so that it can hand off or have better isolation from the newer standard. Networking is something that if you use it at home, you have a full time job in keeping on top of making sure that it is up to your standards and that you get what you expect it to do.

Also at this point with the mess that Microsoft has made with Windows 10. It is making it harder on networking, because of all of the changes that they are making, which is actually breaking the OS, not fixing it.